*Artist Spotlight | Pat McGrath

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The Skinny On Phat Lashes (Part 2)

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Ok this post is the follow up to The Skinny On Phat Lashes (Part 1) and this one was a bit difficult to compile because there were so many questions regarding mascara and the use of it.

I’ve seen so many makeup faux pas regarding this area of makeup. I mean lets face it when people look at anyone’s face the first thing really see is a persons eyes and the whole eye area. Truly this is where you have the most space on your face for artistic expression through color.

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*Artist Spotlight | Max Factor

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Max Factor – The Man Behind The Make-Up

Max Factor born September 15, 1872 was of Polish Jewish decent who worked as a wigmaker and makeup artist for Russian stage productions in the late 1800s. Factor fled the east European pogroms and emigrated to the U.S. in 1902. He found himself in California 10 years later as the motion picture industry took root there.

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Factor took work as a makeup and hair stylist for film stars, and in 1914 he invented “Supreme Grease Paint,” a face makeup that still exists today

Max Factor began his career as an apprentice to a wig maker. By the age of 20, he was running his own makeup shop. Before Max Factor, few women used cosmetics. Factor popularized both the word “makeup” and the use of the cosmetic repertoire.

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Back in the 1930’s and 40’s, during the glory days of Hollywood, the world of movie make-up was dominated by Max Factor. Creating false eyelashes, the eyebrow pencil, lip gloss, and pancake makeup, Factor created a whole new language for big screen cosmetics.

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Jean Harlow, Claudette Colbert, Bette Davis, and virtually all of the major movie actresses were regular customers of the Max Factor beauty salon, located near Hollywood Boulevard.

Inevitably, once the actresses had been made to look so stylish on screen, they wanted to maintain the same effect in everyday life, so they wore the new Max Factor ‘makeup’ in personal appearances.

Soon, women unconnected with the theatre or the film industry were asking for the makeup, so that they too could look glamorous. It was in 1927 that Max Factor introduced his first cosmetics to be sold to non-theatrical consumers.

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Max Factor specialized in transforming ordinary people into dazzling stars. Its glory days were with the golden age of the movie studios, when the stars used to provide product endorsements for as little as a dollar. Their glamour rubbed off on Max Factor, and vice versa.

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Max Factor developed the celebrity endorsement concept, beginning with Clara Bow in the 1920s. Since then, stars including Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner, Marilyn Monroe, Jean Harlow, Judy Garland, Joan Crawford, Jaclyn Smith and Denise Richards amongst numerous others have all represented the brand. Many of his celebrity clients also appeared in full-color magazine ads to promote his cosmetics.

The first Celebrity Makeup Ads began with Max Factor Cosmetics. The ads featured movie stars: Judy Garland, Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rita Hayworth, Dorothy Lamor, Susan Hayward and a host of others.

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The advertising campaign claimed that every girl could look like a movie star by using Max Factor makeup.

Max Factor is credited with many cosmetic innovations. Some of his innovations were the first motion picture makeup in 1914, lip gloss in 1930, Pan-Cake Makeup, forerunner of all modern cake makeups in 1937, Pan-Stik Makeup in 1948, Erace, the original cover-up cosmetic in 1954, and the first “waterproof” makeup in 1971.

An abbreviated timeline of Max Factor:

1914: Created the first makeup made specifically for motion pictures, a thinner greasepaint made in 12 shades. It was in cream form and packaged in jars, as opposed to the thicker stick grease paints used for theatre.

1920: Developed the “Color Harmony” principles of makeup, which held that “certain combinations of a woman’s complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades”.

1925: Introduces “Max Factor’s Supreme Nail Polish”, a metal pot of beige-colored powder that is sprinkled on the nails and buffed with a chamois buffer. It gives nails shine and some tint.

1927: Creates “Society Nail Tint”, a small porcelain pot containing rose colored cream. Applied to the nail and buffed, it gives a natural rose color. “Society Nail White” also hits the market. It is a tube of chalky white liquid that is applied under nail tips and left to dry. The end result resembles the modern French manicure.

1928: Developed makeup, made specifically for use in black-and-white films. Max Sr. was awarded an Oscar for this innovation.

1930: Invented Lip Gloss

1932: Developed a line of “Television Makeup”, specifically to meet the needs of television.

1934: Introduces Liquid Nail Enamel, forerunner of today’s nail enamels.

1935: Opened the unique Max Factor Makeup Salon in Los Angeles.

1937: Created PanCake, forerunner of modern cake makeup, originally developed for color films.

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1938: Max Factor died at age 59. Max Factor Jr. expands the family run business internationally.

1940: Created Tru Color Lipstick, the first smear-proof lipstick.

1948: Developed PanStik makeup.

1954: Created Erace, the original concealer, and developed a line of cosmetics specifically for color television’s needs. (This line remains the standard for TV makeup.)

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1971: Invented the first “waterproof” makeup.

First African American Super Model to represent Max Factor Cosmetics | Beverley Johnson

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Max Factor CC Creams

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Thank You Max! — in Ode’ to Max Factor.

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Book written about the life of Makeup Artist, Inventor, Innovator, CEO Max Factor written by Fred Basten

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http://www.nytimes.com/1996/12/29/magazine/the-man-who-made-the-faces-up.html

“Toss The Gloss” | 50+ Women’s Beauty Book

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

This book has come at a very interesting time in the world and on the beauty stage. An interesting time in that all cosmetic plastic surgury procedures are readily available to the general public and spoken about openly on social media. In days gone by people would never engage in what would be considered private matters.

We’re now in a social media era which is full of youthful images and a myriad of “Selfie’s” to be seen. Sometimes I wonder….; what everyone thinks is so great right now will soon grow old to them and something new will replace it, to a newer and fresher updated model. And everyone who was young during a social media phase will become older too.

It was just the other day I was speaking with a friend about her turning the corner to being 40 years old. Her comments were insightful and very telling of the concerns of a generation. But now what about the ladies who are 50+? If you’re feeling a way just approaching your 40’s what about all the women 50+?!

Beauty is a huge business! I read somewhere once “A woman is thrust into a beauty contest she never even entered into.” So women of all ages, races and body types are entered in this cruel contest of what is beautiful for and on a woman. How does one empower oneself and to not feel left behind or left out of the race we never willingly entered.

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The way a woman (any age woman) empowers herself is….with gaining KNOWLEDGE!

Getting a “Youth Cream”? Get smart! Dealing with the onslaught of appearing wrinkles? Get smart! Applying beautiful powerful makeup to 50+ skin? Get smart! That’s where this unique beauty book comes in chuck full of information, how-to’s and with brand and product knowledge. Written by a beauty industry mogul Andrea Q. Robinson.

Another topic that arises in this book is what is age appropriate makeup in a market where every color eyeshadow and lipstick is being developed? How does your look mature as you mature…gracefully. Embracing the fact that “Less is More” as you grow in grace.

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I do agree to some degree that women at some stage relinquish high glosses for more moisture based lipsticks and pencils. However this does not apply to all women!! Women of Color (of which I am, so I can speak freely about this) are a different story. We have less issues with signs of ageing early, we just don’t age as harshly, nor do we show signs of it in our 20’s, and that’s just a fact. Of course every woman’s beauty regimen differs from household to household.

In the beauty business, models in particular; young women are warned that they have an expiration date being in your late 20’s is the cut off date. While this may ring true with other ethnic groups Women of Color don’t age as quickly ( unless we are speaking of unkempt individuals and hard living individuals), so those rules do not necessarily apply to Women of Color.

The key as you mature (any ethnic group) is moisture! MOISTURIZE!! As you get older your skin can become a bit drier and gravity begins to pull the features of ones face downward. This is why when applying makeup to the more mature set of women I always paint up and out. I always recommend all ages spritz your face with Rosewater throughout the day. It’s fragrant and moisturizes the skin. The natural oils in Rose petals have been used for centuries for its healing, calming and moisturizing effects.

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Andrea Q. Robinson

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About the Author
Andrea Q. Robinson is known for her many leadership positions in the cosmetics industry. She directed and served as president of several of the industry’s most outstanding luxury brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Prescriptives, Ultima II, Helena Rubenstein, Germaine Monteil, Alexandra de Markoff, and Bill Blass. She also served as Chief Marketing Officer of Estee Lauder and consulting CEO for a line of cosmetics in development for one of the world’s most well-known makeup artists.

Prior to her corporate positions, she was a magazine editor for Vogue, Mademoiselle, and Seventeen, where she created and reported on both beauty and fashion trends and discovered and developed several of the industry’s biggest talents, including makeup master Kevyn Aucoin.

Andrea’s mission in the beauty business has always been to help women look like and be themselves—only better. This concept has driven her creation of revolutionary industry trends and fostered her passionate interest in cosmetics for her generation. She has been recognized as an innovative business leader whose skill set has helped redefine the concept of beauty for the modern woman.

Andrea has served on the boards of Cosmetic Executive Women and The Fashion Group International and has received multiple awards such as Cosmetic Executive Women’s “Legends and Leaders” award, Womens Wear Daily’s “Marketing Innovator of the Year” award, and several back-to-back FiFi awards (the Oscars of the beauty industry) for “Fragrance Star of the Year.”

Andrea has two children and lives in New York City.

Best Reviews by Beauty Bloggers
http://thebeautifulmatters.blogspot.com/2014/04/toss-gloss-book-review.html?m=1

http://divadebbi.blogspot.com/2014/04/book-review-toss-gloss.html?m=1

*Artist Spotlight | Alex Box

20140411-124624.jpgWritten by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Every now and again there comes along that just inspires you to do the unconventional, the unexpected…strictly ART MAKEUP. Designs, shapes, colors… It is Makeup… But for what? It’s like going to a museum and examining detail , purpose and the direction of the intention of the makeup. How does it make you feel? The face truly represents the canvas. Alex Box is that kind of Makeup Artists….one who inspires you to dare!!!

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*Artist Spotlight | Sharon Gault Mama Makeup

20140408-082839.jpgWritten by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

It was last year (2013) April at IMATS (International Makeup Artists Trade Show) that I’d first met Sharon Gault aka Mama Makeup. We’d know of each other for many years as she and I both have worked with world renowned photographer David LaChappelle over the years (very few MUA’s get that opportunity because his “family” is tight knit). I was with a friend of mine while passing through the myriad of vendor booths and standing quietly at the RCMA booth, I saw the profile of one fire red head diminutive girl speaking with an older man. I immediately knew who she was,…it was indeed Sharon!

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I walked over to her and said “Hi Sharon, I’m NZINGHA.” Immediately she hugged me ,”NZINGHA! OMG! For real, finally I get to meet you! I’ve heard so much about you!” We hugged and giggled like two little girls in a candy store. “Sharon I’m so happy to meet you too! I looked and instantly knew it was you! How are you muffins?! How’s David doing? Tell him I said hi!”

We talked for quite a bit before I was able to introduce her to my friend who was with me shopping and enjoying the show. Sharon immediately introduced me to the makers of RCMA cosmetics and we all chatted. She and I immediately found a place to sit down and chat for about an hour! We spoke to each other with no reservation and telling our life stories to each other. It was truly a sister bonding moment, like we’ve known each other for years. And in a way we have…through our art.

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I wanted to talk with Sharon forever it was such a joy. Her presence is warm and fuzzy yet powerhouse all rolled into one. We talked about everything but makeup!!! Hahaaaahaa! We mostly talked about life in the fast lane of life and family.

As I looked at her I thought what a doll baby, how could anyone treat her with malice or cruelty. I recalled briefly in my mind her time on tour with Madonna and the ugly behaviour Madonna displayed in the film “Truth or Dare” and I thought about Sharon “You can’t stop a great woman from being who she is destined to be!!!” Sharon moved past Madonna and anyone or anything else that may have appeared to be an obstacle! “Team Mama Makeup” all the way!!!

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I also recalled many years back while I was on tour with Janet Jackson, as the tour was coming to a close I got a call from someone telling me about Madonna’s tour and her looking for a Makeup Artist, I’d been referred.

After seeing that Truth or Dare all I could think of was “not gonna work for any amount of $$$” my West Indian self and her…”Nah man, mi a haffa go beat her pon she head, mi no take tea fa di feva, she come bruk up mi son! Mi give her new eyeshadow called “FIST”!”

I was young and extra spicy then, Lololol! My reply to that person who called me was a healthy no and boy am I glad about that. Had I gone out on that tour I would’ve missed the whole new wave of R&B artists that were about to kick the door down.

Sharon was also on that wave with her roster of musicians and actors that seem endless to even mention. Did I mention Lady Gaga? No?…Lady Gaga….team MAMA MAKEUP all the way! Needless to say Sharon is a fabulous face force to be reckoned with! Some say their brush is not a magic wand but in the hands of Sharon Gault I beg to differ!! Sharon is pure magic on makeup,…the skin comes alive with warmth, depth and boldness.

Mama Fashion

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Mama Music

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Mama Actors

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Mama Means Business

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The original interview with Sharon Gault aka Mama Makeup by Vaga Magazine
Like many people who grow up with little means, the choices are: become a victim of your situation, or use it as an impetus to break free. Though her childhood may have been bleary, her escape (as it is for many) was the world of fashion. Collecting fashion magazines like some people collect baseball cards, Gault had every issue of Vogue: “I was obsessed with collecting my Vogue magazines, and I loved the make-up in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s.”

Surprisingly, make-up was not where Gault started off. Sharon Gault got her start as a wannabe photographer in California after she became infatuated with a sexy boxer named Lee Canalito. “He looked like a Michelangelo sculpture – he is so beautiful. I started photographing him and photographing things at the gym.”

But as a babe on a budget, photography soon proved to be an expensive habit this was back in the days when people still used film – imagine that. So Gault got a job as a receptionist at Vidal Sassoon.

And thus a new chapter began.

“I used to have a Farrah Fawcett kind of hairdo, like feathered hair and highlights. So I became a hair model.” Her mane soon became the sounding board for Vidal Sassoon. Red, black, platinum, asymmetrical cuts, shaved, she did it all. “I’d go from having this long gorgeous lion’s mane hair to cutting all my hair off, being a house model at Sassoon.”

Though she loved modeling the different looks, Gault’s interest ran deeper than just the superficial.

“I was fascinated at how hair revolutionized fashion and I was really excited about studying what Vidal Sassoon did and how he created his signature shape.”

Her fascination with hair soon led to Gault doing hair for others. She studied at the Vidal Sassoon Academy where she honed her skills as a hair and make-up artist.
Her charming, personality and skills soon took her to the top of the celeb circuit where she notably became famous for appearing in Madonna’s movie, Truth or Dare. Under the guidance of Peter Savic, she keyed the hair for the background dancers and singers for Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour.
Though she may not have become Madonna’s BFF, she did find a soulmate in David LaChapelle. “He’s the closest thing to a husband I’ll ever have,” she jokes. After meeting LaChapelle at a photo shoot in New York, the two became fast friends.
“I was assisting a hairdresser and someone on set said, ‘If you and David LaChapelle meet each other, you will be inseparable.”

And inseparable they were. She went on to become LaChapelle’s muse, working with him on an i-D magazine shoot in which she appears naked lying underneath a bubble perched on a field. Gault may have appeared calm and serene, but in reality she was lying on a trash landfill.

“I’m lying on this landfill, sweating, thinking I’m going to get some bad toxic thing in my system. I’m sitting there crying. And they had no permits and the police were driving by, and here I am naked, and everybody is looking at my coochie.”

Though most people might be a little hesitant about appearing naked even if they have model-perfect bodies, Gault says she was comfortable being photographed nude.

“My mom tried to teach us to honor our bodies. It’s that side of me that likes to show that people love me for me, not for my body.”

Not unlike what she did for the Calvin Klein “Pepper” fragrance commercial.
The commercial was all about encompassing different body types, different people,
and different looks.

“Kate Moss used to live with me, and it’s so nice because it opens up with Kate talking – and at the end it’s
me, and I’m like, ‘It’s for you, it’s for me, it’s for everyone.’ Like we’re all one.”

What’s in the Pro Makeup Kit?

20140421-132651.jpgWritten by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Okay, so Ive been asked this question over and over again by Pro’s as well as novice Makeup Artists and makeup enthusiasts alike…”What’s in a Professional Makeup Artists Kit?” Young Makeup Artists have you ever wondered how much money it will take to build your Pro Kit?

Have you ever been asked by the production company the “INVENTORY LIST” for your Pro Kit during filling out your “Start Paperwork” (this is required for the reimbursement of product in the rental of your Pro Makeup Kit)?

Well, every Professional Makeup Artist should have an “INVENTORY LIST” of what’s in their kit and the makeup and makeup supplies, tools and miscellaneous items they have in storage. If you don’t have it it’s time to do some “Spring Cleaning” and organize that kit! Out with the old and in with the new!

Just to help you get started, here’s a sample of an older version of my former Pro Makeup Kit. Some items are a staple in the kit and others have been updated as new and more efficient products are being manufactured. Your inventory list would best serve you in an Excell Spread Sheet so you can list all items, quantities and price points for each item.

NZINGHA’s Makeup Inventory List
(SAMPLE)
Shu Uemura Makeup Case $800.00
2 Small Lavender Suitcases $300.00
Makeup Brushes (Various Brands) $2000.00
1 MAC Lip Conditioner $12.50
1 MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner w/SPF $14.00
1 MAC Embelish Glitz Gloss $14.00
8 MAC Brow Set (Various Shades) $12.50
6 MAC Eye Brow Pencil $13.50
1 MAC Fix + Spray $15.00
1 MAC EZR $29.00
1 MAC Day SPF 15 Light Moisture $25.00
1 MAC Moisture Feed/Skin $27.50
1 MAC Strobe Cream $25.00
8 MAC Select Cover Up (nc20, nc45, nw30, nw25, green, peach, nw40, nc30) $14.00
1 MAC Fast Response Eye Cream $27.50
20 MAC Lip Glass (Various Shades) $14.00
6 MAC Lipliners $12.00
1 MAKE Ready Brightening Mist $32.00
1 MAKE Away Mist Away $32.00
1 MAKE Under Transparent Coverage $32.00
4 MAKE UP FOR EVER Waterproof Eyebrow Kit $24.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Corrective Makeup Base $24.00
6 MAKE UP FOR EVER Diamond Powder $24.00
2 MAKE UP FOR EVER Loose Powder $26.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER #5 Camouflage Cream Palette $36.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Lipliner Concealer $18.00
6 MAKE UP FOR EVER Glitters $18.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Metalizer $36.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Puff Pouch $35.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Freelancer Bag $45.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Touch Up Smock and Bag $
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Makeup Brush Case $32.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Set Bag $45.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Makeup Apron $30.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin Liquid Shimmer (Various Shades) $24.00
3 Kevyn Aucoin Pencil Liners (Black, Brown, White) $26.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin Lip Gloss (Bliss, Aurora) $27.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin The Pure Powder Glow $37.00
1 Kevyn Aucoin The Essential Eye Shadow Set $45.00
4 Kevyn Aucoin The Expert Lip Tint $34.00
12 Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer $45.00
1 Revlon Fineline Natural Brow Pencil $3.14
2 Revlon Fineline Natural Brow Pencil Refills $3.00
6 Prescrptives Liquid Eyeshadow (Various Shades) $24.00
6 Prescriptives Adjustable Coverage Pressed Powder (Various Shades) $35.00
6 Prescrptives Colorclick Eye Sticks (Various Shades) $16.50
12 Prescriptives Liquid Foundations (Various Shades) $32.00
12 Lancome Juicy Tubes (Various Shades) $16.50
1 Laura Mercier Foundation Primer $34.00
1 NARS Body Glow $60.00
6 JAPONESQUE FAST LASH THICKENING FIBERS $14.00
2 JAPONESQUE Heated Eyelash Culers $14.00 2 JAPONESQUE Brow/Groomer/Scissor/Comb $13.40
2 JAPONESQUE Preo Prescision Lash Curler $34.00
1 Calvin Klien Liquid Crystals for Body $20.00
1 Calvin Klein Eye Glass $25.00
6 Posner Cover Cream $6.99
7 Vera Moore Lipstick Palettes $30.00
3 Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs $12.95
6 Posner Derma Color Camouflage Crème $6.99
6 NZINGHA Beaute` Lipglosses (Various Shades) Not Yet Priced
6 Pack of Purell Hand Sanitizer $4.00
2 Double Sided Metal Makeup Pencil Sharpener $20.00
1 Samuel Par Blemish Pen $12.00
1 Duo Eyelash Glue $3.00
1 Mavala Clear Nail Polish $3.75
1 Travel Size Visine $4.00
1 Box of Square Cotton Makeup Remover $12.00
1 Box of Square Makeup Blotters $30.00
1 Carmex Jar $5.00
1 Nosehair Clipper $12.99
Small Set Lip Palette Cases (Various Lipstick) $25.00
2 Alcone Professional Foundation Palette $30.00
1 Hard Candy Training Brow Dark Hair Girl $24.00
1 Small 5 Comparment Makeup Pallette $27.95
1 Small Tortoise Set Foundation Palette $30.00
1000 Small Pink Cotton Squares $36.00
1000 Triangular Sponges $100.00
1000 Small Clear Spatulas $36.00
25 boxes Double Sided Point Q-Tips $51.25
2500 Double Sided Small Round Q-Tips $.33ea
1 Viseart Professional Makeup-Palette $30.00
12 Mark Traynor’s Temporary Face & Neck Lift (Brown) $19.00
1 Dozen Alcone Professional Makeup Sponge $20.00
1 Small Black Fan $19.99
2 Double Sided Black Mesh Makeup Bags $12.99
1 Prestige Individual Eyelash Curler $16.00
6 Small Pack Brumisateur Evian $10.00
2 Small Artisan & Artist Standup Hand Mirror $30.00
3 Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner 32oz Containers $25.00
1 Box of Dental Floss Sticks $4.35
1 Travel Size First Aid Kit $5.00
1 Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil Gel $3.95
24 Case Lashes (Various Styles) $24.00
1 Pack of Straws (36 units) $.99
6 Pack of Wet Wipes

Now here’s a visual update of my current kit found on Pinterest. This visual display makes it easy for me to know what’s in my kit as assisting me in creating the updated inventory list.

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