STROBING Makeup? What is “Strobing”?

Posted on July 15, 2015 by queennzingha

Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™

As I’ve been researching on the internet I’ve found this new term floating around “STROBING”. I’m like what the blaze is that about?!? These kids making up names for this we’d already tagged for years!!

It made me chuckle a bit to think how everything in life really does go in cycles. Contouring is a cycle revisited in every generation and it seems so again with STROBING! Ok I’d done this look on several occasions with my Musical Celebrity Clients all throughout the 90’s only we never called it strobing.

My Makeup look for Mary J Blige for Interview Magazine shot by David La Chappelle. Here she is strobing with NARS BODY GLO and Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel.

The look for me took me back in different eras 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 70’s Disco. One of my fave sites to see some vintage looks is http://www.queensofvintage.com you will see nothing is really new, it’s just revisited by an era that comes behind it. It’s rediscovered and in some cases redesigned but never re-invented!!

Here’s Ms. Marilyn Monroe clearly 50’s style strobing

I mean just look at these Legends looking glorious and just that hint of sheen and highlight in the right spots. Meanwhile the natural contours of their faces were strong to begin with.

All Strobing is is a play on light, highlighting and a little sheen or even a high gloss for extra drama! It’s not to be confused with a dewy look. A dewy look is lightweight and pretry much consistent all over the face. Strobing is focused either in a mild way or in a dramatic way (that’s when I break out the oils, not just creams or shimmering powders) it’s really making use of the light source on your subject and reflecting that light.

My latest Strobing makeup work with the lovely Model Olivia. See how the light hits her face in strategic places?

This is Rapper Charli Baltimore in a shot we did for Honey Magazine again a play on light and liquid to create this strobe look.

Now I’m going to share with you how my creative mind worked at that time (and trust me it saved me many a day when I had countless models on set to do full face and body makeup). Believe it or not I would use a can of Isoplus Oil Sheen Spray!!

Yes I used a hair sheen spray, yes it worked and yes it looked good!!! No streaks just an even stream of sheen in all the right places and the formula was thick enough to stay in place yet thin enough to coat and spray and no harm was ever done to anyone’s skin!!

My personal technique for “Strobing” is equal parts foundation to liminzer (MAC Strobe Cream, Gorgio Armani Luminzer, or a loose shimmering powder and all other makeup are also creams) I like to use my fingers on the skin to warm it up and move the product better. Then I go in and stipple brush in circular motions to blend. And then I’d finish off with a mist of sheen spray (well now I use Caudalie as my sheen spray).

I strobe on the body as well. I would use the same technique with the body and a larger brush (no sponges!). My fave body strobing options today are

Caudalie (The spray bottle and scent make this one #1 choice for numerous purposes)
NARS Body Glo
Body Shop Honey Bronze

My Makeup for Lil’ Kim in this video is “Strobing 101: For Dummies ” music video style. Check the pause at counter 3:44-3:45 you will see STROBING at its best!!

“Soul Sista” Written & Sung by Bilal, Directed by Nzingha Stewart , Makeup Consultant by NZINGHA . Here we are STROBING to the 11th power!!!

Right now this is my “Go-To” on set STROBING body oil by Caudalie’…WHY? Smells great, sprays (that’s the deal breaker for me) and they’ve got mini’s (also a deal breaker for me, remember I bought the mini Isoplus’ because they were mini and spray!) for my On-Set bag!

Had we had Caudalie’ in the 90’s I would’ve bought them by wholesale case as I prefer to have bulk of my fave Go-To products. That’s the other thing. When you’ve been at it for years you develop a signature Pro MUA style, presentation and you become set about the products that will become long term staples in your Kit.

Right now this is mt “Go-To” on set body oil…WHY? Smells great, sprays and they’ve got mini’s for my set bag!

Jackie Aina : Strobing

Wayne Goss: Strobing

Tina Young: Strobing

M•A•C Cosmetics Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set | Review

Posted on September 2, 2014 by queennzingha

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

You’re probably thinking the same thing I was thinking when M•A•C introduced this new Waterproof Brow Set…NOT ANOTHER EYEBROW ANYTHING!!!

I felt like we have totally been over obsessed with eyebrows this past couple of seasons and I really don’t understand it. One brand specializes in brow products, then Instagrammers go nuts with scouring for bigger bolder even more colorful brows! What’s next on this new brow frontier?

Well, I answered my own question…not water resistant but waterproof brow set! Not a brow gel but a set (setting the natural brow hairs in place). Well, with all the work most Pro MUA’s do can find them in some unlikely situations.

EXAMPLES:
1) Having to spray liquids on a makeup and not have any streaks of makeup flowing down

2) With men the focal points on men with facial hair are brows, sideburns,mustaches and beards (especially these days with men actually growing out long styled beards).

You know sometimes with character makeup you may have to completely change the appearance of a person and; surprisingly changing someone’s brows can really make a person look different!

After testing out these colors I’ve got to say I’m really LOVING THIS PRODUCT!!! All the colors are matte except for one that has a slight shimmer to it Toasted Blonde. My personal favorite is Red Chestnut. I like it for a slightly bleached brow look without actually bleaching my brows!

Where was this product in the 90’s when all of us top MUA’s were on Blonde Ambition Brow watch, buying cases of Jolene Cream Bleach?!?? No slight to Jolene, which is still the #1 selling facial hair bleaching cream!

I also love the smaller brush head. This brush helps you really navigate combing through the hair and getting each strand covered!

Okay now lets look at the available colors. There are 6 colors all together.

1)Emphatically Blonde
(light ash taupe color)

2) Toasted Blonde
(golden slightly shimmery)

3) Red Chestnut
(red brown)

4) Gentle Brunette (not pictured)

5) Bold Brunette
(chocolate brown)

6) Brown Ebony
(chocolate black)

Alright people as much as I love this brow set it does have it’s areas that need improvement. Well it’s not completely waterproof more like water-resistant and I think they should add 1 or 2 more colors like silver and a shimmery snow white (for actors playing older characters).

Overall do I love it? Emphatically…YES!!!

M•A•C’s Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set sells for $17.00

http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/149/30804/Products/Eyes/Brow/Pro-Longwear-Waterproof-Brow-Set/index.tmpl

The Wonders of Vaseline Review

Posted on April 3, 2014 by queennzingha

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

THE HISTORY OF VASELINE’s ORIGIN

Robert Chesebrough, a British industrial chemist, was laboriously working to clarify kerosene from sperm whales. Whales and their body oils and even fluids in the early 1800’s helps to create balms, salves, creams, and various distilled oils.

In 1859, oil rig workers, reportedly found a substance that built up on the machinery, resulting in frequent mechanical malfunctions. They called it ” black rod wax”. The men who worked on those oil rigs used the remnant as ointment for their bruises and wounds. Chesebrough got wind of this unrefined ointment and then traveled to the United States to visit this Pennsylvanian rig. He found that the black rod wax could be distilled to form a light-colored gel.

Read more about the history of Vaseline. Love discovering something new to me but historical in its time.http://www.damninteresting.com/story-of-vaseline/
Mr Chesebrough obviously knew early on about marketing and eventually becoming a brand! Check out these ads over the years

Obviously from its really early days

This ad looks like it may have come in the 30’s-40’s

This display looks like its from the 40’s or 50’s

PACKAGE DESIGN OVER THE YEARS

And now the packaging for Vaseline has this great new flip top and has 4 different scents ; original, baby, coco butter and aloe. Really cool! Love it and love the colours added to the newer scents labeling.

Vaseline internationally. Kinda sad that its played into the obsession of skin lightening in India. I don’t see anything wrong with being brown! Guess its age old in the African American community we have always had lightening/whitening creams too.

I personally love the gels because I’ve got really dry skin and it just guzzles moisturizers as if it were nothing. Although it leaves the skin soft but you can see visible dryness, so love, love, love the gels. I also use them for glossy makeup looks. I keep a little squeeze bottle of it for my Pro Makeup Kit. Yeah!

Here’s that special “glo” you get from Vaseline in a fashion look. Really beautiful. Women used to wear Vaseline for eyeshadow in the 20-30’s all the time. It was used with black coal chips to make mascara (hence how Mabelline got its start).

In fact I learned that eye technique from my Grandmum who used Vaseline for 99 years (literally she died just before reaching 100). She used it as a night moisturizer(every night) and in all those years even at 99 she had minimal amount of wrinkles on her skin all over body.

Special packaging just for men. I guess it’s necessary because let’s face it men like packaging too. And in this era of designer this and that men like to see cool packaging on their shelves too, oh and have good skin as well.

My least favourite product from Unilevers Vaseline brand are these sprays. HATE EM’!!!! And they’re relatively new however, I do not expect to see these on the market next year. The product gets everywhere but directly where it’s supposed to go…ON THE BODY GUY’s, ON THE BODY!! Not on my floors so I can skid on them accidentally as I’m walking by!

The lip balm packaging now is so vast for Vaseline and has over the years added Color and flavours to the brand. I think it’s great!

Of course the “millennials” love anything with bling to it (I’m a bit guilty of it too) so here’s a LIL’ bling thing for those that like a lil’ sparkle with their lip product

TARTE Cosmetics Review

Posted on March 28, 2014 by queennzingha

TARTE Cosmetics review…
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

It all started for me when I used my FAVORITE product from Tarte called “The Little Blot Book”. This was my go to item while working live on set. It gave me the finish of an HD powder long before HD powders were popular.

Yes, it was a bit light and, you did have to add a bit of color to it but, boy it kept my Actors dry and smooth especially the ones you know will perspire and that the makeup will move.

I always highly recommended it to other Artists to make this well worthwhile purchase just to have it in their Pro Kits. I recall going through at least 3 books while working on Spider-Man 3

Recently while at work one of my lovely clients walked in bearing gifts from Tarte!! I was in shock and felt as if I’d gotten an Oscar or something. It was just the thought and presentation that warmed my heart.

Honestly I’d totally given up on Tarte after they pulled my Blot Book off the shelves but this surprise gifting has had me take a second look at the overall brand and the inner workings of the actual products. Can I say “My how things have changed! For the better! Better?”

The bearer of my gifts placed all of the products in Tartes signature purple shopping bag and then had this beautiful nylon fuschia cosmetic bag to go with all the products.

The first items amongst a host of items were these stunning makeup brushes…no matter how many brushes you may have you always can use more!! Each brush is different and has different purposes. And for me dual sided brushes are always winners,especially when I’m on set and want to cut down on carrying my whole brush roll (hate that!). I’m all about being compact, smart , organised and efficient.

The bamboo wood handles on these brushes lend a superb aesthetic and uniqueness that is now apparently becoming Tarte’s signature look. For a while it seemed to me that Tarte didn’t have its own unique voice amongst the sea of beauty brands…what made it special or even a “go-to” brand.

After spotting and pulling out my brushes I was overwhelmed by a sea of products in this awesome packaging. They’d redesigned the packaging!! Wow! I’m truly impressed!

All women like products that look good on the shelf and so Tarte is winning on looks but the true test for me as Pro working Makeup Artist is the actual product. For a real working Artist packaging is nice but it don’t pay the rent, the product and its ability to work does.

So, lets take a look at what’s happening with the 3 things I look for in a product:
1) Color Payoff
2) Pigmentation
3) Longwear

Usefulness and smart packaging…yes!

All in one Foundations and BB Primer’s great idea huh?

Swatches for the BB Primer and Foundcealer

I have to be honest I’m never a fan of bronzers. I don’t fancy people walking around looking like Oompah Loompahs…can you say scary and hilarious at the same time?! Now the average person is not successful at actually applying bronzers. Lets see about this one from Tarte.

It’s got a bit of shine to it but not too overbearing. Shine is always great for a nighttime look and in my opinion but, a no-no for older women.

Tarte is known for their longwear blush stains and these Color options are also now a staple in their collection. After trying them they definitely have longwear however the pigments on range are still a bit sketchy. Great for Caucasian women but for women of deeper tones they still need work.

Shadows

Eyeliner and Brow Gel

More…

Okay, so after trying it all…my overall feeling is ….this brand is still carving it’s niche out. The packaging is awesome. The product itself needs more work.

The clay in the foundation is great for people who have oily skin and large pores. The foundation, BB Primer, the Foundcealer all are rather dry and have a tendency to lack warmth in color leaving the coverage a bit cold and flat. However I would use the line as an overall primer because it does leave the skin smooth and the natural body oils don’t readily push through.

After applying the makeup (which was easy and smooth). The surface of my skin was beautiful and clear. I always allow for time with makeup for it to “marinate” and become one with the skin but,…IT NEVER HAPPENED!

I however after several hours (12 to be exact) still looked smooth (to Tarte’s benefit, and it is truly amazing how long it actually stayed on) yet GRAY (I ultimately cheated later by blotting it down with rosewater and adding a touch more color from another brand.)!! And simply too light for my skintone.

Now if the Foundcealer & BB Primer were a half shade darker and a bit more red, it would be perfect. The BB Primer is great as a tinted moisturizer and is great for those who have good clear skin and are looking to do a “no makeup, makeup look”. If you have darkness under the eyes I would recommend still using a concealer.

I will also say bravo to the loose Smooth Operator powder that comes at the base of the twist off top of the cream concealer. It’s perfect and I wouldn’t change it at all. Though it’s pure white (and may seem scary…like Twilight vampire scary) in the container trust me it’s truly a lightener for dark circles yet transparent (can’t explain it but honey it works at setting that concealer).

The products color range are very safe and non obtrusive. Really you can’t go wrong with their rage of colors if you are someone who is a bit frightened by bright playful colors.

I will give another nod to the retractable black eyeliner that did not move for 12 hours and did not need refreshing AT ALL during those 12 hours…AMAZING!! No running or smudging AT ALL!!! The retractable eyeliner pencil I definitely recommend you purchasing.

The foundations would be great for Caucasian skin tones, yet again, still lack warmth in the undertones so, you might want to mix it with a warmer foundation just for perfect color.

I will say the Foundcealer and the BB 12 hour primer does what it says and stays on for hours and the coverage is good and smooth. Buuuuttt…

Unfortunately the darkest colored foundations (deep) are still not full range and tend to look flat and ashy for women of color. I found I needed to add more Color to my face so, I wound up using another brands finishing pressed powder.

Overall Tarte has mastered packaging! Awesome packaging and great conceptual ideas for the functionality. Yay Tarte!!!👏👏👏👍👍👍

Yet, honestly,…the actual products need work. :|The colors lack Luster and come across as flat and safe.🎨My initial introduction to the product was by way of The Little Blot Book and, even then the powder was a bit patchy and needed revamping and needed a color safer for darker skin tones.

After speaking with a group of African American and Caribbean women the general consensus is…”Ya gotta mix it with something else for sure.”, or “I just gave it away. Who does this work for?”, or just a flat out “Nahhhh!”.

In closing…you can do it Tarte…work it out! I want you guys to win!

Flesh Tone…

Posted on October 15, 2013 by queennzingha

FLESH TONE
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

What does “Nude” or “Flesh Tone” mean to women of color in fashion?

I recall sitting at my Grandmum’s feet and hearing her tell me stories of the fashions from her era 1930-1950’s. Those were her years of being a “Fashionista”. She told me how the women styled their hair (usually short or neck length and sometimes a bit longer but rolled up short into chingon’s), nails (mostly red varnish and then eventually pink) and makeup (pretty much nothing a powder if you could find one to match your skin color, red lipstick, mascara and a brow pencil).
Some modern young women could stand to re-evaluate their presentation. Take a peek at this vintage Makeup Tutorial…

I would look at some of her old photographs and the albums she had and even found one or two magazines. The women in the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s were so glamourous and feminine looking, even on their down days they were still well groomed.

Ms. Edith (Grandmum) once told me a story while I was shimmying into my “nude” colored nylons (1977) getting ready for church. I was complaining about how ugly the Color of these stockings really were and how it just didn’t look like the natural color of my legs, maybe I should’ve tried just getting coffee (a brown thats darker than my natural medium brown colored legs) or black (you could never be wrong with black sheer nylons on right?)

I noticed she was laughing at me and said “AnnZingha, you think those are ugly eh? (Sucking her teeth) You should’ve seen the ones we had to wear back then. They used to call them Red Fox and boy were they eva RED! They were literally red. This was the only natural toned nylons for black people. Either that Beige or Black sheer. That was it!! Take it or leave it!”