Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
Max Factor – The Man Behind The Make-Up
Max Factor born September 15, 1872 was of Polish Jewish decent who worked as a wigmaker and makeup artist for Russian stage productions in the late 1800s. Factor fled the east European pogroms and emigrated to the U.S. in 1902. He found himself in California 10 years later as the motion picture industry took root there.
Max Factor began his career as an apprentice to a wig maker. By the age of 20, he was running his own makeup shop. Before Max Factor, few women used cosmetics. Factor popularized both the word “makeup” and the use of the cosmetic repertoire.
Back in the 1930’s and 40’s, during the glory days of Hollywood, the world of movie make-up was dominated by Max Factor. Creating false eyelashes, the eyebrow pencil, lip gloss, and pancake makeup, Factor created a whole new language for big screen cosmetics.
Inevitably, once the actresses had been made to look so stylish on screen, they wanted to maintain the same effect in everyday life, so they wore the new Max Factor ‘makeup’ in personal appearances.
Soon, women unconnected with the theatre or the film industry were asking for the makeup, so that they too could look glamorous. It was in 1927 that Max Factor introduced his first cosmetics to be sold to non-theatrical consumers.
Max Factor specialized in transforming ordinary people into dazzling stars. Its glory days were with the golden age of the movie studios, when the stars used to provide product endorsements for as little as a dollar. Their glamour rubbed off on Max Factor, and vice versa.
Max Factor developed the celebrity endorsement concept, beginning with Clara Bow in the 1920s. Since then, stars including Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner, Marilyn Monroe, Jean Harlow, Judy Garland, Joan Crawford, Jaclyn Smith and Denise Richards amongst numerous others have all represented the brand. Many of his celebrity clients also appeared in full-color magazine ads to promote his cosmetics.
The first Celebrity Makeup Ads began with Max Factor Cosmetics. The ads featured movie stars: Judy Garland, Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rita Hayworth, Dorothy Lamor, Susan Hayward and a host of others.
Max Factor is credited with many cosmetic innovations. Some of his innovations were the first motion picture makeup in 1914, lip gloss in 1930, Pan-Cake Makeup, forerunner of all modern cake makeups in 1937, Pan-Stik Makeup in 1948, Erace, the original cover-up cosmetic in 1954, and the first “waterproof” makeup in 1971.
An abbreviated timeline of Max Factor:
1914: Created the first makeup made specifically for motion pictures, a thinner greasepaint made in 12 shades. It was in cream form and packaged in jars, as opposed to the thicker stick grease paints used for theatre.
1920: Developed the “Color Harmony” principles of makeup, which held that “certain combinations of a woman’s complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades”.
1925: Introduces “Max Factor’s Supreme Nail Polish”, a metal pot of beige-colored powder that is sprinkled on the nails and buffed with a chamois buffer. It gives nails shine and some tint.
1927: Creates “Society Nail Tint”, a small porcelain pot containing rose colored cream. Applied to the nail and buffed, it gives a natural rose color. “Society Nail White” also hits the market. It is a tube of chalky white liquid that is applied under nail tips and left to dry. The end result resembles the modern French manicure.
1928: Developed makeup, made specifically for use in black-and-white films. Max Sr. was awarded an Oscar for this innovation.
1930: Invented Lip Gloss
1932: Developed a line of “Television Makeup”, specifically to meet the needs of television.
1934: Introduces Liquid Nail Enamel, forerunner of today’s nail enamels.
1935: Opened the unique Max Factor Makeup Salon in Los Angeles.
1937: Created PanCake, forerunner of modern cake makeup, originally developed for color films.
1938: Max Factor died at age 59. Max Factor Jr. expands the family run business internationally.
1940: Created Tru Color Lipstick, the first smear-proof lipstick.
1948: Developed PanStik makeup.
1954: Created Erace, the original concealer, and developed a line of cosmetics specifically for color television’s needs. (This line remains the standard for TV makeup.)
1971: Invented the first “waterproof” makeup.
First African American Super Model to represent Max Factor Cosmetics | Beverley Johnson
Max Factor CC Creams
Thank You Max! — in Ode’ to Max Factor.
Okay, so Ive been asked this question over and over again by Pro’s as well as novice Makeup Artists and makeup enthusiasts alike…”What’s in a Professional Makeup Artists Kit?” Young Makeup Artists have you ever wondered how much money it will take to build your Pro Kit?
Have you ever been asked by the production company the “INVENTORY LIST” for your Pro Kit during filling out your “Start Paperwork” (this is required for the reimbursement of product in the rental of your Pro Makeup Kit)?
Well, every Professional Makeup Artist should have an “INVENTORY LIST” of what’s in their kit and the makeup and makeup supplies, tools and miscellaneous items they have in storage. If you don’t have it it’s time to do some “Spring Cleaning” and organize that kit! Out with the old and in with the new!
Just to help you get started, here’s a sample of an older version of my former Pro Makeup Kit. Some items are a staple in the kit and others have been updated as new and more efficient products are being manufactured. Your inventory list would best serve you in an Excell Spread Sheet so you can list all items, quantities and price points for each item.
NZINGHA’s Makeup Inventory List
Shu Uemura Makeup Case $800.00
2 Small Lavender Suitcases $300.00
Makeup Brushes (Various Brands) $2000.00
1 MAC Lip Conditioner $12.50
1 MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner w/SPF $14.00
1 MAC Embelish Glitz Gloss $14.00
8 MAC Brow Set (Various Shades) $12.50
6 MAC Eye Brow Pencil $13.50
1 MAC Fix + Spray $15.00
1 MAC EZR $29.00
1 MAC Day SPF 15 Light Moisture $25.00
1 MAC Moisture Feed/Skin $27.50
1 MAC Strobe Cream $25.00
8 MAC Select Cover Up (nc20, nc45, nw30, nw25, green, peach, nw40, nc30) $14.00
1 MAC Fast Response Eye Cream $27.50
20 MAC Lip Glass (Various Shades) $14.00
6 MAC Lipliners $12.00
1 MAKE Ready Brightening Mist $32.00
1 MAKE Away Mist Away $32.00
1 MAKE Under Transparent Coverage $32.00
4 MAKE UP FOR EVER Waterproof Eyebrow Kit $24.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Corrective Makeup Base $24.00
6 MAKE UP FOR EVER Diamond Powder $24.00
2 MAKE UP FOR EVER Loose Powder $26.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER #5 Camouflage Cream Palette $36.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Lipliner Concealer $18.00
6 MAKE UP FOR EVER Glitters $18.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Metalizer $36.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Puff Pouch $35.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Freelancer Bag $45.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Touch Up Smock and Bag $
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Makeup Brush Case $32.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Set Bag $45.00
1 MAKE UP FOR EVER Makeup Apron $30.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin Liquid Shimmer (Various Shades) $24.00
3 Kevyn Aucoin Pencil Liners (Black, Brown, White) $26.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin Lip Gloss (Bliss, Aurora) $27.00
2 Kevyn Aucoin The Pure Powder Glow $37.00
1 Kevyn Aucoin The Essential Eye Shadow Set $45.00
4 Kevyn Aucoin The Expert Lip Tint $34.00
12 Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer $45.00
1 Revlon Fineline Natural Brow Pencil $3.14
2 Revlon Fineline Natural Brow Pencil Refills $3.00
6 Prescrptives Liquid Eyeshadow (Various Shades) $24.00
6 Prescriptives Adjustable Coverage Pressed Powder (Various Shades) $35.00
6 Prescrptives Colorclick Eye Sticks (Various Shades) $16.50
12 Prescriptives Liquid Foundations (Various Shades) $32.00
12 Lancome Juicy Tubes (Various Shades) $16.50
1 Laura Mercier Foundation Primer $34.00
1 NARS Body Glow $60.00
6 JAPONESQUE FAST LASH THICKENING FIBERS $14.00
2 JAPONESQUE Heated Eyelash Culers $14.00 2 JAPONESQUE Brow/Groomer/Scissor/Comb $13.40
2 JAPONESQUE Preo Prescision Lash Curler $34.00
1 Calvin Klien Liquid Crystals for Body $20.00
1 Calvin Klein Eye Glass $25.00
6 Posner Cover Cream $6.99
7 Vera Moore Lipstick Palettes $30.00
3 Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs $12.95
6 Posner Derma Color Camouflage Crème $6.99
6 NZINGHA Beaute` Lipglosses (Various Shades) Not Yet Priced
6 Pack of Purell Hand Sanitizer $4.00
2 Double Sided Metal Makeup Pencil Sharpener $20.00
1 Samuel Par Blemish Pen $12.00
1 Duo Eyelash Glue $3.00
1 Mavala Clear Nail Polish $3.75
1 Travel Size Visine $4.00
1 Box of Square Cotton Makeup Remover $12.00
1 Box of Square Makeup Blotters $30.00
1 Carmex Jar $5.00
1 Nosehair Clipper $12.99
Small Set Lip Palette Cases (Various Lipstick) $25.00
2 Alcone Professional Foundation Palette $30.00
1 Hard Candy Training Brow Dark Hair Girl $24.00
1 Small 5 Comparment Makeup Pallette $27.95
1 Small Tortoise Set Foundation Palette $30.00
1000 Small Pink Cotton Squares $36.00
1000 Triangular Sponges $100.00
1000 Small Clear Spatulas $36.00
25 boxes Double Sided Point Q-Tips $51.25
2500 Double Sided Small Round Q-Tips $.33ea
1 Viseart Professional Makeup-Palette $30.00
12 Mark Traynor’s Temporary Face & Neck Lift (Brown) $19.00
1 Dozen Alcone Professional Makeup Sponge $20.00
1 Small Black Fan $19.99
2 Double Sided Black Mesh Makeup Bags $12.99
1 Prestige Individual Eyelash Curler $16.00
6 Small Pack Brumisateur Evian $10.00
2 Small Artisan & Artist Standup Hand Mirror $30.00
3 Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner 32oz Containers $25.00
1 Box of Dental Floss Sticks $4.35
1 Travel Size First Aid Kit $5.00
1 Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil Gel $3.95
24 Case Lashes (Various Styles) $24.00
1 Pack of Straws (36 units) $.99
6 Pack of Wet Wipes
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
It was just an ordinary day for me on my way home from work. I happened to be walking towards 14th Street up 6th Avenue (in NYC). And I stopped by a window and saw beauty items. I originally wanted to go to Ricky’s that night for a special product I always use. This place would be a detour for me on the way.
The boutique like store was closed! I knocked on the window for the attention of what looked like a sales person. We spoke through the closed glass door, I asked if they carried the item I was originally going to Ricky’s for. I thought perhaps they may have it. He said wait hold on let me look. He looked and said “No, but you may find that at Ricky’s it’s just up 14th Street.”
The original brand store in NYC called Ricky’s
I thought to myself how sweet of him to stop to talk to me even as they are closing up the shop. I asked what time they’d be open again tomorrow so I could be sure to come back. I turned on my heels and found my way over to Ricky’s for my products.
I returned again the next day again after work but a bit earlier. Again looking through the clean clear glass windows of this beauty boutique I could see what seemed to be an endless wall of hair goodies and supplies. Well, you’ve already reeled me in! As I walked in the door to this sleek airy and modern space to my left was what looked like an electric chair. I didn’t bother to examine it because I was pulled in by what I saw…PRODUCTS!!! Turns out that that “electric chair” is the original hair perm machine used in the 1930’s. A magical, historical and vintage find!
As a beauty Artist you find yourself always on the lookout for the next best thing that will become the “SECRET WEAPON” in your makeup kit. And sometimes the “SECRET WEAPON” is… a place. I always want to be surprised by the latest and greatest new thing on the market that will wind up becoming legendary and something my clients (celebrity & non celebrity alike) will absolutely love.
When I was deep into the store a most stunningly handsome man asked if he could help me. In my usual frank and nautily witty way I replied “Mmm you don’t even know!”, “What’s this place?…it’s new. I’ve not seen this store here before. And it says outside Kenig + Alcone? I know about Alcone I’m a big supporter of Alcone are they the owners of this store?”
He said yes. And began to tell me of the merging of my two favourite brand stores. OMG!! I’m in love!! Truly an amazing find I thought. And funny just the night before I came here looking for products I usually find at Ricky’s!!! The irony of it!! Well, just then the same young man who spoke to me through the glass just the night before came barreling down the steps.
He said “I remember you. How are you? Where you able to find your products? My name is Ray. Ray Holt.” I loved him instantly! He took me for a tour upstairs as I told him my specialty is makeup. He asked if I knew Ricky then. I said “Ricky who?”, he said “Ricky Kenig. The owner of this store and the founder of the original Ricky’s beauty supply.” Me “WHAT?!?!” Wait a minute, Ricky’s beauty supply and Alcone merged? GENIUS!!!! Who knew! No I don’t know Ricky.”
Ray, “Surprising, everybody knows Ricky.” I guess Ray was right everybody does know Ricky if they’ve been in his store but do I know him personally,…no. “He knows everyone in the beauty industry you had to have met him.” “I should know him, his store has been my go to all throughout my career! Guess, if you think about it,… you can say I know him and he knows me.”
Well, upstairs was a virtual smorgasbord of beauty and makeup items a beauty ingenues heaven!!! There were two young MUA’s up there browsing like myself. We wound up chatting all four of us.
This time I had to run because I was going to my next job but I wanted to meet Ray and browse the store. I would return again and upon my next visit after sending several clients to pick up items at the store, I walk in and there’s a handsome distinguished gentleman who greeted me at the door he said “Hi! Welcome to the store, I’m Ricky (with a firm handshake).”
I’m now floored by all the irony surrounding Ricky and myself today. I finally after years of supporting his other stores get to meet him today…, genius serendipity and not accidental! We spoke for at least an hour and a half ( such an amazing man, with the warmest heart and incredible brand knowledge). Please look for upcoming classes from yours truly at Kenig + Alcone Boutique.
After doing a bit of homework after my meeting the charming, stylish and enigmatic Ricky, I found out that Ricky’s was not his first beauty supply shop but “LOVE” Beauty Supply during the 80’s was! I lived for Love’s back then at the the beginning of my budding makeup career out of HS. My how we both have grown, I thought. Not only is Ricky a man with a Midas touch for beauty stores he’s got a creative talent for making things happen. Ricky Kenig is the originator of the fashion runway worlds choice hair clips and matte hair pins only found at Kenig + Alcone and created by Ricky Kenig himself.
Well, in closing, I’ll say this…Kenig + Alcone is certainly no kitschy novelty store but a sleek, modern boutique with an almost millennium apocathary feel. It’s for the more mature polished consumer who knows about Pro Makeup and Hair brands. NY’s answer to LA’s Frends and Naime’s (I dare say Kenig + Alcone will give the West Coast brands a run for their money!). Not to mention you can find just about all of your beauty needs that a Sephora cannot fill. Specialty beauty items never seen before and only used by Celebrity Pro Makeup Artists and Hair Designers. The items as only Ricky Kenig and Alcone can deliver. BRAVO Kenig + Alcone, BRAVO 👏👏👏👏
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
The two supermodels I loved from the 60’s were Twiggy and Peggy Moffitt (loved their makeup & hair!!!) and both are still alive and kicking. Peggy actually did a photo shoot not to long ago recreating her iconic 60’s look. And guess what she’s still wearing her famous top and bottom lashes!!
Makeup Artist Way Bandy applying makeup to Model.
Makeup Artist Joey Mills applying makeup to Supermodel Brooke Shields.
There are models who can bring makeup (the product) to life. And some women just really look good in makeup, meaning they have a face for makeup and can wear pretty much any style of makeup a Makeup Artist can come up with.
That face would be Linda Evangelista’s. the symmetry of her face and brow just all works! Here’s to Supermodel Linda Evangelista.
• 80’s-90’s SUPERMODELS
I also was a a big fan of the new kind of stardom that arose in the ’90s, the category of supermodels. In the ’70s and ’80s there were only about 4-5 models that were pretty well known (Iman, Brinkley, Porizkova, Dickinson etc). It was George Michael’s “Freedom” music video in 1991 and later his music video “Too Funky” (my favorite one for fashion, especially the Therry Muglier motorcycle bustier…what whas he thinking?!) that shed a different kind of light on models and their potential to not just sell a product but become a brand themselves.
My personal favourite 6 models were always Naomi Campbell (British Caribbean). Second favorite was Yasmeen Ghauri (Canadian, but half-German and half-Pakistani). Third, Linda Evangelista (American). Fourth Roshumba (African American), Tyra Banks (African American) and Alek Wek (African).
“The big-5” of the ’90s (on record) were Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista. These ladies were in high demand and had the same status in celebrity as any singer, musician or actor.
Additional models among the top-20 according to Zothike’s list included…Niki Taylor, Tatjana Patitz, Yasmeen Ghauri, Carmen Kass, Shalom Harlow, Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen, Karen Mulder, Tyra Banks, Amber Valetta, Kate Moss, Nadja Auermann, Stephanie Seymour, Eva Herzigova, Elle Mac Pherson.
A second-tier model celebrities according to this Zothike listing , below the top-20, included Bridget Hall, Estella Warren, Estelle Halliday, Daniela Pestova, Emma Sjoberg, Kristen McMenany, Natalia Vodianova, Rebecca Romijn, Yasmin LeBon, Brandy, Milla Jovovich, Iman (Iman was more 80’s supermodel and then 90’s super-brand with her cosmetic line)and just a few more. You can see all these models at Zothike’s web site, but for some weird reason the black supermodels are not in his/her list (I emailed him/her about this back in the day, he/she never replied).
Here is a list of the “Top 10” Black Supermodels in the 90’s. Now mind you only two ladies on that list have had supermodel status from the 70’s!!! That would be IMAN (African) and Beverly Johnson (African American). And let’s be clear those ladies don’t show the signs of ageing like they’re era’s contemporaries. So that proves….
a.) The myth about one having to quit early because they will age quickly is not applicable to all.
b.) The old adage “Black don’t crack” ehm it’s true, period.
Okay The Top 10 Black Supermodels list includes IMAN (who was Co-Contributing Beauty Editor with me for VIBE Magazine) Roshumba Williams, Beverly Peele, Beverly Johnson, Alek Wek, Tyra Banks, Kimora Lee, Veronica Webb, Liya Kebede and of course Naomi Campbell. I would add to this list Lana Oglvie, Beverly Peele, Karen Alexander, Waris, Gayle O’Neil, Mounia, Sheila Johnson, Anna Getaneh, Khadijah Adams, Louise Vyent, Katoucha Niane and more (look for Black Supermodel in an upcoming post).
In the current decade the “supermodel” has just vanished. There are only 3-4 new known models (Gisele, Heidi Klum, Karolina Kurkova etc) while Tyra Banks’ (who is so, beyond supermodel but now a super multimedia brand) “America’s Next Top Model” show has failed to bring supermodeling back into its previous stardom status. I guess you can say that the “golden era” of super modelling seems to be relegated to the ’90s. It will be missed.
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
And yes, Joey was one of the first noted African American Male Makeup Artists in his time. There were probably other African American Makeup Artists that we may not know of but he is on record as one of THE FIRST noted.
Remember in the history of Makeup Artists they were all noteably film Makeup Artists and Caucasian males i.e. Max Factor, Ben Nye, William Tuttle amongst others. In addition, Mills was the first African American Makeup Artist and Makeup Artist in genral Black or white to have the most magazine covers…ever!
Over 1600 magazines to be exact! He was also the Key Makeup Artist for the 70’s film “The Eyes of Laura Mars”. Joey set the look for Calvin Klein fashions as well as the well known Calvin Klien Jeans ads and commercials with none other than Brooke Sheilds. Joey has worked with Legends Diana Ross, Rachel Welch, Melba More , Pauline Poritzcova and many more.
In addition he has headed up runway shows for Calvin Klein, Valentino, Versace, Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta, makeup design for Broadway shows and TV.
Joey is also the author of New Classic Beauty: A Step-by-Step Guide to Naturally Glamorous Make-Up. Mills’ style of makeup was lush colourful and well blended also having a groomed brow but left natural in its appearance different from the brow styling of Way Bandy which included extreme arching and “bleaching” and a heavier contouring makeup style (Kevyn Aucoin patterned his style of makeup after Bandy)
EYE OF LAURA MARS (trailer)
Here in this short clip of the film you will see a young Joey doing what he first best applying makeup, and he obviously is cast as himself in the film not only is he featured once but twice!
Music, Interviews & Photos from the 1970’s film “Eyes of Laura Mars”
CHECK OUT THIS INTERVIEW WITH MILLS IN BLACK ENTERPRISE 1977
I love Joey and look our glasses are the same color! I just had to rub on him with all that knowledge and wisdom in the room, I was over the moon !
Joey and I at the MAC Pro demo (June 2012) of legendary Makeup Artist Peter Robb King (Rocky Horror Picture Show Makeup Designer).