STROBING Makeup? What is “Strobing”?

Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™

As I’ve been researching on the internet I’ve found this new term floating around “STROBING”. I’m like what the blaze is that about?!? These kids making up names for this we’d already tagged for years!!

It made me chuckle a bit to think how everything in life really does go in cycles. Contouring is a cycle revisited in every generation and it seems so again with STROBING! Ok I’d done this look on several occasions with my Musical Celebrity Clients all throughout the 90’s only we never called it strobing.

My Makeup look for Mary J Blige for Interview Magazine shot by David La Chappelle. Here she is strobing with NARS BODY GLO and Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel.

 

The look for me took me back in different eras 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 70’s Disco. One of my fave sites to see some vintage looks is http://www.queensofvintage.com you will see nothing is really new, it’s just revisited by an era that comes behind it. It’s rediscovered and in some cases redesigned but never re-invented!!

Here’s Ms. Marilyn Monroe clearly 50’s style strobing

  I mean just look at these Legends looking glorious and just that hint of sheen and highlight in the right spots. Meanwhile the natural contours of their faces were strong to begin with.

All Strobing is is a play on light, highlighting and a little sheen or even a high gloss for extra drama! It’s not to be confused with a dewy look. A dewy look is lightweight and pretry much consistent all over the face. Strobing is focused either in a mild way or in a dramatic way (that’s when I break out the oils, not just creams or shimmering powders) it’s really making use of the light source on your subject and reflecting that light. 

 

My latest Strobing makeup work with the lovely Model Olivia. See how the light hits her face in strategic places?

 

This is Rapper Charli Baltimore in a shot we did for Honey Magazine again a play on light and liquid to create this strobe look.

 

  Now I’m going to share with you how my creative mind worked at that time (and trust me it saved me many a day when I had countless models on set to do full face and body makeup). Believe it or not I would use a can of Isoplus Oil Sheen Spray!! 

Yes I used a hair sheen spray, yes it worked and yes it looked good!!! No streaks just an even stream of sheen in all the right places and the formula was thick enough to stay in place yet thin enough to coat and spray and no harm was ever done to anyone’s skin!! 

My personal technique for “Strobing” is equal parts foundation to liminzer (MAC Strobe Cream, Gorgio Armani Luminzer, or a loose shimmering powder and all other makeup are also creams) I like to use my fingers on the skin to warm it up and move the product better. Then I go in and stipple brush in circular motions to blend. And then I’d  finish off with a mist of sheen spray (well now I use Caudalie as my sheen spray).  

I strobe on the body as well. I would use the same technique with the body and a larger brush (no sponges!). My fave body strobing options today are 

  1. Caudalie (The spray bottle and scent make this one #1 choice for numerous purposes)
  2. NARS Body Glo
  3. Body Shop Honey Bronze   

My Makeup for Lil’ Kim in this video is “Strobing 101: For Dummies ” music video style. Check the pause at counter 3:44-3:45 you will see STROBING at its best!!

“Soul Sista” Written & Sung by Bilal, Directed by Nzingha Stewart , Makeup Consultant by NZINGHA . Here we are STROBING to the 11th power!!!

Right now this is my “Go-To” on set STROBING body oil by Caudalie’…WHY? Smells great, sprays (that’s the deal breaker for me) and they’ve got mini’s (also a deal breaker for me, remember I bought the mini Isoplus’ because they were mini and spray!) for my On-Set bag! 

Had we had Caudalie’ in the 90’s I would’ve bought them by wholesale case as I prefer to have bulk of my fave Go-To products. That’s the other thing. When you’ve been at it for years you develop a signature Pro MUA style, presentation and you become set about the products that will become long term staples in your Kit.

Right now this is mt “Go-To” on set body oil…WHY? Smells great, sprays and they’ve got mini’s for my set bag!

 
Jackie Aina : Strobing

Wayne Goss: Strobing

Tina Young: Strobing

black|Up! Cosmetics | Review

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black|Up! Cosmetics | Review
Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™

I have been wanting to review this product since it was first introduced in the mid 90’s!!! black|Up Cosmetics Paris. Yes, I have been an avid follower of this product line. They were first released overseas in Paris in the mid 90’s and were doing what seemed to be well then suddenly disappeared!!! I was mortified because before I could even give them shout outs they had gone AWAL!!

I first found out about them when I was on tour with Mary J. Blige as her Makeup Artist. We had a brief stop over performance and promotion in Paris. I met a few young ladies there who introduced me to the line and told me where I could get it! And I indeed found it and purchased some foundations in the line and bought them back to the US! In fact I had used it for my own personal use and also for a few of my clients and I loved it!! Until I ran out and could no longer access the product!!!

The black|Up Cosmetics Pro Catalogue. Full Color product selections with high gloss pages. 75 pages of beauty!! Magnifique’!!

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PANIC MODE 101!!! Client loves the colors you’re using…wants you to buy the product for them for their personal use…me…PRO MAKEUP ARTIST…BLANK STARE!!! WTH!!!! I can’t find them anywhere!!!! WHAT DO I TELL MY CLIENT…until now…close to 10years later! Revamped, repackaged, reformulated and rebranded…ready for action! IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT HONEY!!! YASSSSSS!!! Don’t miss this opportunity guys! I say stock up on this amazing brand designed unapologetically for Women of Color!!

Here I am in full black|Up makeup I used all the colors in one shot to get this makeup look. I use the CC Cream Foundation #04 daily(this is my Summer Tanned Skin color, my Winter color is #03,this is my normal skin toned color)

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While on tour in Europe numerous times going to the best makeup shops I could barely find beautiful colors for Women of Color!!! I was highly offended!!! Then I thought really??? I mean for real people of Color are truly a minority in Europe…but not in the rest of the world so what can you expect from this market! And imagine a line for Women of Color over here would fly off the shelves simply because their beauty needs are being met!

I’m not here to apologize for my blackness or for any comments I make regarding any brand that is not inclusive of Women of Color. As far as I’m concerned I want to solely deal with brands that speak to my complexion without having to worry if I’m going to look grey, green or just chalky. I want a brand that suits my complexion and yes, there needs to be more brands worldwide for Women of Colors choosing!! NO APOLOGIES!!

Here are the colors that were sent to me and I am thrilled to say …I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS LINE!! Everything about this line I LOVE!!

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Here are the eyeliners (liquid gold and orchid colored gel pencil eyeliner) and concealer

20141009-201547.jpgI am in absolute awe of this liquid eyeliner!! I can’t believe I’ve never had anything to compare to it EVER in my Pro Kit!!! And honey I’ve had my kit full of products that have come and gone in my 27year career!! I’ve got to order like 4 more of these!!! Long wear and waterproof for real waterproof (even with dish soap I couldn’t take it off!)

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Here are the blushes in the colors 01(Fuschia Pink) and 11(Shimmery Coral).

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http://www.blackupcosmetics.com/makeup/face/blush/new-blush.html

PRICE | $25.50

Here’s the black|Up CC Cream Foundation in #03 and on my hand 04

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http://www.blackupcosmetics.com/cc-cream-multi-action-complexion-correcting-foundation.html
PRICE | $39.50

Here we have the glorious Complexion Enhancer/ Embellisseur de Teint (EMB03)

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Here’s the black|Up Poudre Sublime (PS04)

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PRICE | $36.50

Here is the Creme Poudre’ (NFC03)

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http://www.blackupcosmetics.com/makeup/face/foundation/cream-to-powder-foundation-new-formula.html
PRICE | $41.00

Rich Moisturising Lipsticks

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http://www.blackupcosmetics.com/makeup/lips/lipstick/new-lipstick.html
PRICE | $22.50

BONUS
So ok, listen if you are not sure of how the colors of the foundations will work on you, you can always test it out with these blister packs that have a range of 4 shades to test! Shads #04-#09 uhh and there are 16 shades to choose from that selection were just the colors they chose for me based on knowing my skin tone. AMAZING CUSTOMER SERVICE!!! What more could you ask for.

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black|Up! Video Reviews

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*Artist Shadow* by Make Up For Ever | Review

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Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™
I love makeup surprises! I l was going through my emails and saw this offer from Makeup Artist Magazine and Make Up For Ever Pro Cosmetics. A selection from their new eyeshadow collection developed by several MUA’s and Dany Sanz creator of Make Up For Ever. The collection has developed 210 Artist chosen creamy, velvety, and bendable Pro Grade Eyeshadows

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Here are the shadow selections that were sent to all Pro Gold and Platinum Makeup Artist Magazine Pro Cards as a complementary gift to all card holders.

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Marc Jacobs Beauty | Review

Marc Jacobs Beauty |Review
Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Can I just tell you how much I’m loving the Marc Jacobs Beauty Collection!!! I was on a photo shoot yesterday and used the Marc Gele Foundation, conncealer and Gloss in both Heart Shaped and Over Protected. LOVED IT!!!

I love the overall packaging of the line. It’s pretty visually definable much like his clothing collection. The oval frosted bottles kinda remind me of Halston back in the 80’s…post disco chic!

My only 2 qualms (and this first one is major) about the line is the foundation color range…it excludes darker complexions! Are we still doing that exclusion thing really? It’s 2014 get with the program and consult some people of color about developing more colors. The second qualm I have is the names on the products are just too damned long!!! Like can we abbreviate some of those names?! C’mon already!!!

20140909-140318.jpgMarvelous Mousse Foundation

Price $55.00

I was shooting Kandace Springs (singer, songwriter, musician) for a beauty & hair book this past weekend. And I thought it would be great to introduce her to the brand as well. And yes, Kandace loved Marc’s line too!! I used the color “34 Beige Medium” (perfect on the spot!) I mixed the foundation with a little coconut oil for a really light dewy look.

TECHNIQUE: I mix a bit of the oil into the foundation on my mixing palette then used the BeautyBlender® to sponge it on.

Yes the coconut oil gives the foundation a light dew. If you want more of a slick dewy look baby oil gel will give a pure wet look.

20140909-142426.jpgGenius Gel Foundation
Price $48.00

Here’s Lady Kandace Springs and I after the shoot for celebrity photographer Hosea Johnson’s upcoming coffee table book

20140909-144651.jpgMy favourite concealers right now are ones that give good coverage yet feel light and are liquid yet dry to a beautiful creaseless finish. Here Marc has a concealer that has a similar feel to me as the Marvelous Mousse Foundation which are incredibly light feeling and can be sheer but give a good buildup if you want more coverage.

20140909-140348.jpgRe(Marc)able Full Cover Concealer
Price $32.00

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Remedy Concealer Pen
Price $39.00

A model came in the salon on Saturday and was getting her hair done, I asked her to come in my chair because I wanted to try the concealer (because her eyes were puffy as if she’d been crying).

I used the “After Curfew #7”. In all actually wound up using it as her overall foundation!!!! The color was beautiful, perfect for her complexion.
Yes ladies I used the concealer as a foundation!!!

Later on that afternoon this is what happened; I also, had one in the fridge and then used it (yes chilled) on one woman’s eyes and trust me it’s anti puffiness! Why is it anti-puffiness, because of that metal tip applicator! That applicator tip is genius!!

I love the overall constriction of the Remedy Concealer Pen. Love the metal applicator tip, the clicker base, and the mini window (to see how much of the product you have left)…smart packaging! My most favourite color in the Remedy is the baby pink “Bright Idea”…great highlighter color and great for women who have those pesky blue veins under their eyes and for darker complexions that have gray/blue darkness.

20140909-140441.jpgLust For Laquer Lip Vinyl-Sheer
Price $28.00

The Vinyl Sheer Lip Glosses are great long wearing and no running glosses. The colors I chose are obviously sheer with a slight natural tint. My favourites are Clear and Heart Shaped.

Okay my final analysis of the Marc Jacobs Beauty Collection is…I love it accept for that one element that needs immediate alterations deeper tones in the foundations.

Paint On viZionaire,
NZINGHA

Dirty Work…SPFX Dirt Kits

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Dirty work, but somebody’s got to do it! Well, guess what not all makeup is pretty makeup!

Makeup in any communication medium is used to help tell and sell the story. I mean think about it, if everyone looked handsome or pretty all the time in an action film, horror film or just everyday occurrence films we’d say “Hey!! That’s not realistic!”or we’d simply be confused about what happened in the film.

In vintage black and white films a lot was left to the imagination but in today’s modern world people want to see the what only a generation before imagined! We now have high tech special effects and all kinds of scenarios that require a special type of makeup.

Now let me be clear here, I’m not touting my ability to do high end extensive Special Effects Makeup but, I sure do appreciate it! I’m what you’d call a LIGHT SPFX Makeup Artist. The bigger guns I just call the SPFX Specialists.

Okay now on this post I’m here to talk about light SPFX makeup….DIRT, Grime, Soot and the like. In my Day Play kit I usually carry around some of everything because you never know what you’ll be asked to do with the makeup.

In my Dirt Kit I carry the following:

1) 3-4 types of dirt POWDER(black, dark brown, tan and sometimes desert (a brick brownish red powder) LIQUID SPRAY, DIRT BAG or CREAM DIRT.

2) 3 spray pouf units (to dispense powder in layers for a more real effect and less dirt on my hands so I can continue working)

3) Glycerine (I use this for sweat and tears effects, you can always substitute it with another element i.e. sunscreen, Vaseline, baby oil, etc.)

4) Blood (liquid (light, regular and dark dried thickened), fresh scarring blood, scab blood and blood capsules.

5) Tear Maker Vaporizer (use this item with caution cause it really makes people cry because the menthol is concentrated)

6) Stippling Sponge (I use this to add layers and visual texture)

7) A makeup protector cape ( to protect your actors clothes until they are dressed in full wardrobe from the wardrobe department. We don’t want to get anyone’s day clothes dirty! Lolol)

Here’s my mini “Dirt Kit”I take this one with me when I’m Day Playing, if more is needed the department head and department key will have full sized supplies.

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While I was working on Boardwalk Empire we had to prepare for a big explosion scene. This explosion was to occur on the Boardwalk with several stores, buildings and part of the actual Boardwalk being blown up. Thank goodness the professionals were there NYFD and NYPD and explosive experts.

Here I’ve applied soot & grime makeup to 2 Actors for the upcoming explosion scene for the HBO TV series Boardwalk Empire. My gentleman is in stage 1 of makeup. My lady is in complete makeup stage 1 & stage 2 of the process.

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Here I’m applying soot & grime makeup to my Actress for the upcoming explosion scene for the HBO TV series Boardwalk Empire.

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Here my Actress is showing off the first stages of her soot & grime hands. The second step is more dirt/soot under the nails and some blood and cuts (imagining broken glass flying and brusing of some sort)

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Ve Neil on Blood and Dirt Effects

Green + Street on working Dirt Effects

Love Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, it’s usually where I get specialty items like my dirt and other hard to find supplies.

http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/categories/make-up-and-hair/blood-and-effects/fleet-street-dirt-works

Overall, every MUA has their own technique in creating the look. No two techniques are the same but you can learn from different artists and create your own. When you’re creating a dirt look you have to really think about the context of the scene and what would actually happen in that scene. Ask yourself these questions:

1) What’s the action going on in that scene?

2) What does the script call for?

3) What does the set look like?

4) What is the wardrobe doing?

5) What level of dirt does the scene call for?

6) What type of dirt? Wet, dry, lumpy, oily, black, brown, red, tan?

7) What type of blood would be needed to complete the look or if blood is needed at all?

Okay, I’m done…hope this was useful to you. Signing out!

Paint On viZionaire!
NZINGHA

Organizing with Label Makers & Photo Printers

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
I am totally “Mz. Organization Keep A Clean Kit Lady”! It’s almost OCD cleanliness and organization. I should’ve had an organizing buisiness because seeing things in order actually brings me comfort. Order and structure helps you to see things clearer in general.

Many MUA’s are so creative right brain that they neglect analytical, linear left brain things. This can be detrimental to their productivity and craft. I totally use both because I’ve learned balance is the key! BALANCE IS A SKILL!!

I’ve seen so many of my MUA colleagues kits and honestly I wanted to scream and run from them!! And I wonder how someone so brilliantly gifted hasn’t figured out hygienic and orderly makeup practices?! How do you find anything in that makeup mess heap?!?!

20140903-120148.jpgMy onset Office Boxes (I have a few that house a wholesale stash of various items like my printers, Medical Supplies, Men’s Grooming supplies etc., etc.)

20140903-120204.jpgMy mini Skincare Kit (for Day Play work and for easy Set Bag carrying)

20140903-120212.jpgMy mini SPFX Makeup Kit (mostly for Day Play work and for easy Set Bag carrying)

I literally saw ages ago now, one MUA I knew fairly well had zip lock bags with all kinds of makeup in it. They were all mixed up together and then, she had the nerve to dump it all out on the makeup set up table! I was like what the hell is going on here? Pencils all smushed into lipstick cases and powder cases she had to use paper towels to clean things off before using them!! BUT…she could paint a face like nobody’s business!!!

Me on the other hand, Im Queen of the plastics and labeling. There’s nothing worse to me than looking for items and to see a chaotic makeup station! All my Assistants always knew where to find things because it was clear. And I’m one of these MUA’s that carry everything you expect and even the things you don’t! Always try to be prepared for any scenario.

So, okay now, here we have my Brother P-Touch PT-H100 label maker that I got on sale at STAPLES for $10 (normally like $30)!!! I also have a Brother Limited Edition Craftmakers labeler PT-1100SBVP(seen in the photo pale pink and celery green) can’t remember the price and it’s now a discontinued item but, it sure wasn’t $10!

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Here’s my beloved portable photo printer by Cannon called the “Selphy CP910“. It’s literally like the size of the mini Apple iPad! I LOVE THIS PRINTER!!! I got my “Selphy” on sale for $99 at Best Buy!

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I really adore this printer!!!! Why? Because it’s wireless!!! So I can use my phone to take pics and then (while on set) send the pics to the printer and print out pics without even having to leave set!!! Continuity issue solved! I don’t have to sit around waiting to print photos they’ll simply be waiting for me in the trailer at the close of the night!!!

No working Pro MUA should EVER be on a set as a Department Head or Key and not have a photo printer! How else would you best do your live continuity books? Of course you can always do continuity on a few available apps (I have just recently with the SyncOnSet app) but, nothing beats the handbook.

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So when all is said and done the truth is with the actual makeup, it can get messy and cleaning your kit is at your personal discretion. However it always just looks really good for professional Makeup Artists to be well groomed, kits well prepared, kits well organized and simply raises the bar for us to be with our time and their money!!

We’ve always got to be on our A-game because you never know who’s watching.

Check out Alejandra (we must’ve been separated at birth…cause I thought I was the only one so organized)

M•A•C Cosmetics Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set | Review

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

You’re probably thinking the same thing I was thinking when M•A•C introduced this new Waterproof Brow Set…NOT ANOTHER EYEBROW ANYTHING!!!

I felt like we have totally been over obsessed with eyebrows this past couple of seasons and I really don’t understand it. One brand specializes in brow products, then Instagrammers go nuts with scouring for bigger bolder even more colorful brows! What’s next on this new brow frontier?

Well, I answered my own question…not water resistant but waterproof brow set! Not a brow gel but a set (setting the natural brow hairs in place). Well, with all the work most Pro MUA’s do can find them in some unlikely situations.

EXAMPLES:
1) Having to spray liquids on a makeup and not have any streaks of makeup flowing down

2) With men the focal points on men with facial hair are brows, sideburns,mustaches and beards (especially these days with men actually growing out long styled beards).

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You know sometimes with character makeup you may have to completely change the appearance of a person and; surprisingly changing someone’s brows can really make a person look different!

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After testing out these colors I’ve got to say I’m really LOVING THIS PRODUCT!!! All the colors are matte except for one that has a slight shimmer to it Toasted Blonde. My personal favorite is Red Chestnut. I like it for a slightly bleached brow look without actually bleaching my brows!

Where was this product in the 90’s when all of us top MUA’s were on Blonde Ambition Brow watch, buying cases of Jolene Cream Bleach?!?? No slight to Jolene, which is still the #1 selling facial hair bleaching cream!

I also love the smaller brush head. This brush helps you really navigate combing through the hair and getting each strand covered!

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Okay now lets look at the available colors. There are 6 colors all together.

1)Emphatically Blonde
(light ash taupe color)

2) Toasted Blonde
(golden slightly shimmery)

3) Red Chestnut
(red brown)

4) Gentle Brunette (not pictured)

5) Bold Brunette
(chocolate brown)

6) Brown Ebony
(chocolate black)

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Alright people as much as I love this brow set it does have it’s areas that need improvement. Well it’s not completely waterproof more like water-resistant and I think they should add 1 or 2 more colors like silver and a shimmery snow white (for actors playing older characters).

Overall do I love it? Emphatically…YES!!!

M•A•C’s Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set sells for $17.00

http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/149/30804/Products/Eyes/Brow/Pro-Longwear-Waterproof-Brow-Set/index.tmpl