STROBING Makeup? What is “Strobing”?

Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™

As I’ve been researching on the internet I’ve found this new term floating around “STROBING”. I’m like what the blaze is that about?!? These kids making up names for this we’d already tagged for years!!

It made me chuckle a bit to think how everything in life really does go in cycles. Contouring is a cycle revisited in every generation and it seems so again with STROBING! Ok I’d done this look on several occasions with my Musical Celebrity Clients all throughout the 90’s only we never called it strobing.

My Makeup look for Mary J Blige for Interview Magazine shot by David La Chappelle. Here she is strobing with NARS BODY GLO and Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel.

 

The look for me took me back in different eras 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 70’s Disco. One of my fave sites to see some vintage looks is http://www.queensofvintage.com you will see nothing is really new, it’s just revisited by an era that comes behind it. It’s rediscovered and in some cases redesigned but never re-invented!!

Here’s Ms. Marilyn Monroe clearly 50’s style strobing

  I mean just look at these Legends looking glorious and just that hint of sheen and highlight in the right spots. Meanwhile the natural contours of their faces were strong to begin with.

All Strobing is is a play on light, highlighting and a little sheen or even a high gloss for extra drama! It’s not to be confused with a dewy look. A dewy look is lightweight and pretry much consistent all over the face. Strobing is focused either in a mild way or in a dramatic way (that’s when I break out the oils, not just creams or shimmering powders) it’s really making use of the light source on your subject and reflecting that light. 

 

My latest Strobing makeup work with the lovely Model Olivia. See how the light hits her face in strategic places?

 

This is Rapper Charli Baltimore in a shot we did for Honey Magazine again a play on light and liquid to create this strobe look.

 

  Now I’m going to share with you how my creative mind worked at that time (and trust me it saved me many a day when I had countless models on set to do full face and body makeup). Believe it or not I would use a can of Isoplus Oil Sheen Spray!! 

Yes I used a hair sheen spray, yes it worked and yes it looked good!!! No streaks just an even stream of sheen in all the right places and the formula was thick enough to stay in place yet thin enough to coat and spray and no harm was ever done to anyone’s skin!! 

My personal technique for “Strobing” is equal parts foundation to liminzer (MAC Strobe Cream, Gorgio Armani Luminzer, or a loose shimmering powder and all other makeup are also creams) I like to use my fingers on the skin to warm it up and move the product better. Then I go in and stipple brush in circular motions to blend. And then I’d  finish off with a mist of sheen spray (well now I use Caudalie as my sheen spray).  

I strobe on the body as well. I would use the same technique with the body and a larger brush (no sponges!). My fave body strobing options today are 

  1. Caudalie (The spray bottle and scent make this one #1 choice for numerous purposes)
  2. NARS Body Glo
  3. Body Shop Honey Bronze   

My Makeup for Lil’ Kim in this video is “Strobing 101: For Dummies ” music video style. Check the pause at counter 3:44-3:45 you will see STROBING at its best!!

“Soul Sista” Written & Sung by Bilal, Directed by Nzingha Stewart , Makeup Consultant by NZINGHA . Here we are STROBING to the 11th power!!!

Right now this is my “Go-To” on set STROBING body oil by Caudalie’…WHY? Smells great, sprays (that’s the deal breaker for me) and they’ve got mini’s (also a deal breaker for me, remember I bought the mini Isoplus’ because they were mini and spray!) for my On-Set bag! 

Had we had Caudalie’ in the 90’s I would’ve bought them by wholesale case as I prefer to have bulk of my fave Go-To products. That’s the other thing. When you’ve been at it for years you develop a signature Pro MUA style, presentation and you become set about the products that will become long term staples in your Kit.

Right now this is mt “Go-To” on set body oil…WHY? Smells great, sprays and they’ve got mini’s for my set bag!

 
Jackie Aina : Strobing

Wayne Goss: Strobing

Tina Young: Strobing

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M•A•C Cosmetics Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set | Review

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

You’re probably thinking the same thing I was thinking when M•A•C introduced this new Waterproof Brow Set…NOT ANOTHER EYEBROW ANYTHING!!!

I felt like we have totally been over obsessed with eyebrows this past couple of seasons and I really don’t understand it. One brand specializes in brow products, then Instagrammers go nuts with scouring for bigger bolder even more colorful brows! What’s next on this new brow frontier?

Well, I answered my own question…not water resistant but waterproof brow set! Not a brow gel but a set (setting the natural brow hairs in place). Well, with all the work most Pro MUA’s do can find them in some unlikely situations.

EXAMPLES:
1) Having to spray liquids on a makeup and not have any streaks of makeup flowing down

2) With men the focal points on men with facial hair are brows, sideburns,mustaches and beards (especially these days with men actually growing out long styled beards).

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You know sometimes with character makeup you may have to completely change the appearance of a person and; surprisingly changing someone’s brows can really make a person look different!

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After testing out these colors I’ve got to say I’m really LOVING THIS PRODUCT!!! All the colors are matte except for one that has a slight shimmer to it Toasted Blonde. My personal favorite is Red Chestnut. I like it for a slightly bleached brow look without actually bleaching my brows!

Where was this product in the 90’s when all of us top MUA’s were on Blonde Ambition Brow watch, buying cases of Jolene Cream Bleach?!?? No slight to Jolene, which is still the #1 selling facial hair bleaching cream!

I also love the smaller brush head. This brush helps you really navigate combing through the hair and getting each strand covered!

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Okay now lets look at the available colors. There are 6 colors all together.

1)Emphatically Blonde
(light ash taupe color)

2) Toasted Blonde
(golden slightly shimmery)

3) Red Chestnut
(red brown)

4) Gentle Brunette (not pictured)

5) Bold Brunette
(chocolate brown)

6) Brown Ebony
(chocolate black)

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Alright people as much as I love this brow set it does have it’s areas that need improvement. Well it’s not completely waterproof more like water-resistant and I think they should add 1 or 2 more colors like silver and a shimmery snow white (for actors playing older characters).

Overall do I love it? Emphatically…YES!!!

M•A•C’s Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set sells for $17.00

http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/149/30804/Products/Eyes/Brow/Pro-Longwear-Waterproof-Brow-Set/index.tmpl

M•A•C Cosmetics Prep + Prime Highlighter | Review

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Where do I begin this post?…Mmmm maybe I could start with the fact that highlight is like the biggest deal now in makeup application. It’s become truly the highlight of the whole application process.

We now live in a makeup world where under eye brightening is a focus in makeup styling and, dare I say it but it appears to me that this is the “Millennial’s ” offering to an eras makeup styling.

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So to be sure one gets the maximum effect in highlighting in my estimation is a two step process. Best scenario a highlighter pen and a wisp of some glorious shimmery pressed pot, mineral or baked powder.

Here’s my review for M•A•C’s Prep + Prime Highlighter. Now lets be perfectly clear several companies now have highlighter pens that are also designed to act as a highlighter.

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Here I have 3 colors, (waiting on the 4th color, Radiant Rose) I have

Light Boost
Bright Forecast
Peach Lustre

The highlighter comes in this convenient click pen dispenser. I like how you can control the liquid product within the confines of the pen and brush with a cap top to prevent leaking spills. Only one drawback to all products that have this style of packaging is that you have to twist and click a couple of rounds before the product comes gushing out!

Once the product is out it’s perfect! Love the fact that you get so much product in this small slender pen. Please note that it’s 3.6 ml or 0.12 ounces which I think is quite ample for just a highlighter. And trust me on this one, a little goes a long way!

Another note, you’ve gotta work quickly when applying this product because it tries quickly and sets in place for extended wear!! You can use it over or under your foundation. I wouldn’t attempt to build this product up too much because its kinda opaque and may not look good with another layer added ontop.

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My favorite of the 3 is Bright Forecast for sure! Okay now, all three have a shimmer to them and are quite lovely but the Bright Forecast to me has the most noticeable shimmer of the 3 and I simply adore this one. It’s like a pink/golden color, it’s a keeper! Only drawback in this color is it’s the in between color which means it may be too dark for lighter complexions and too light for darker complexions.

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I also feel like these pens colors can be versitile for use as a blusher or blush transition color. You can always add more shimmer with a shimmery powder as I’d previously suggested.

This product seems to be water resistant as well. When I last used it, it stayed on for about 10 hours without retouching and was best removed by an oil based makeup remover. Overall I do like this product again for several reasons. This one will also become a staple in my Pro Kit!

M•A•C Prep + Prime Highlighter is sold for $26.00.
http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/153/15746/Products/Eyes/Primer/Prep-Prime-Highlighter/index.tmpl

M•A•C Cosmetics Pro Conceal and Correct Palettes Review

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc
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Recently I acquired the entire Pro Conceal and Correct Palettes for a film I’m currently working on, in the colors :Light, Medium, Medium Deep and Dark.

It appears to me that all of the corrector colors (2 in each palette) at the bottom of the palettes in colors :

(Light Palette)
Pale Yellow & Pale Pink

(Medium Palette)
Mid-Yellow & Mid Peach

(Medium Deep Palette)
Rich Yellow & Burnt Coral

(Dark Palette)
Ochre & Pure Orange

The remaining colors in each palette (4 colors) appear to be the concealers or foundations. These colors are all creams and can go on sheer or more densely depending on the method you choose to apply them.

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These colors are rich, long wearing and give great color deposit. But most of all it doesn’t move and appears to be water resistant! My actresses will be more than happy because the look great and I’m happy because the finish is beautiful and I don’t have to do an excessive amount of retouching during last call touch ups on set! Yay!!!

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What I also love about this product is like the sister Lip Palette is the PACKAGING! Simple easy square shape (great for stacking in your case), 6 pots, cleartop acrylic window and magnetized closure! WINNER!!! LOVE IT SIMPLY GENIUS!!!

Okay, here below are several swatches from all four palettes. I used my fingers for these swatches. The first swipe was pretty sheer so I built up the color by dipping into the colors a bit more building up layers.

Medium Deep & Dark Palette

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Light & Medium Palette

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Here all the colors are listed on the back of each of the palettes for your easy distinguishing of colors. I think it’s a great que to take from Makeup Artists who have always organized their kits in the same way by labeling their products to fit into empty palettes.

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In closing I think this is a great item to have in your Pro Kit! My only suggestion for this item would’ve been to simply have a Corrector Palette alone. The Corrector Palette would have all 8 correctors in one, because all Pro MUA’s have concealers that they like but so far the M•A•C correctors are really the star of this show!

Price of a single Pro Conceal and Corrector Palette is $40.00. http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/157/23772/Products/Face/Concealer/Studio-Conceal-and-Correct-PaletteMedium/index.tmpl

Just browZING…

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc20140402-024950.jpg

MAX FACTOR at work applying makeup

The precision in shaping the Brow really is in the steady hand of the Artist and with great tools. Like a Doctor has instruments of accuracy, precision and design so does the Makeup Artist!

Every Makeup Artist of note will tell you about the original Max Factor Fineline Retractable Pen with great veneration and praises. The package contained the original pen and a case if mini colored leads. The lead refills you’d have to purchase separately after buying the pen. Most will say “Why did they discontinue it!! I hate when they do that!!”

I recall my Mum having loads of these in her makeup kit (cause she was the original Brow Queen). I don’t know the actual year they were first created (I’d like to say the 50’s because back then makeup packaging was always gold bling).

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Well as modernists we all are looking for the next smart, precise, compact new thing. Today in this era the “Fineline” has taken on a whole new dimension in a marker pen almost like an extremely pointed …dare I say it Sharpe!!

BROW PENS

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This is the closest this generation is going to come to the OG (Old Glams) Fineline Pen! They’re really not bad…in fact I like them a lot however, there is and was nothing like the Max Factor Pens…sadly…nuff said!

This post is not just about the brow pencil but, brows in general and brow products to give you smartly groomed brows. How do you get that polished brow?

Here are my weapons of choice:
*BE ADVISED THIS IS MY PERSONAL TECHNIQUE*
1) A great canvas (skin)
2) Healthy brow hairs (moist and firm hairs, not dry and brittle hairs. See my previous post on mascara)
3) Brow scissors & Brow Shapers
4) A good pencil, pen or powder
5) A good brow wax (to start training the hairs in place)
6) A good brow gel (to style and finish the brow and in some cases to lighten or darken as a highlight)
7) Jolen Creme Bleach (*optional, if you’d like to tint your brows)

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Everyone achieves the perfect brow their own way. What counts ultimately is that you get there!

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BROW WAX
Brow Wax to lay unruly brows down and just train them to line up.

20140402-022404.jpgBROW PENCILS
Hands down my current brow pencil of choice is by MAC. But I tell you if Max Factor ever bought Fineline back again Id be considered a defector easily! Sorry I just jave to tell the truth. However of all the brow pencils Ive worked with after Fineline MAC is the only one that I’ve found that gives me that look and feel. BRAVO MAC!!! A word to the wise MAC…dont ever get crazy and decide to change up the formula’s consistency or discontinue the pens, okay?!

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BROW GELS
Brow Gel Clear and Tinted are my favorite final step to perfect brows. I use them to “stylize” a brow at times meaning, I use different colors to create highlights in the brow much like you would the hair on your head. Why do that, you may ask?

I do it to sometimes lighten up an extremely dark brow to create the illusion of softness. Or I may want to thicken a brow with a slightly darker gel. It all depends on the style of brow you are looking to create.

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PS if you find any of those OG’s (Old Glams) please send them over!!!

OK, ladies and gentlemen, there are some looks that are simply UNACCEPTABLE! LET’S GO THERE…I’M GOING TO NEED YOU TO STOP DOING THIS!!!!

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20140403-193437.jpgOH AND THIS….PLEASE HAVE MERCY🙏🙏🙏

20140403-193608.jpgNOW HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF GOOD BROW GROOMING

When you have your brows well groomed it makes all the difference to your appearance and even outlook. You simply feel better. Here are a few of my brow clients before and after’s. These ladies are some serious power brokers in business and they know what it takes to be taken seriously and look good doing it!

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MAC Cosmetics Product Review

Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc20140401-232851.jpg

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Well, my history with MAC Cosmetics is a long one and definitely one to talk about in having longstanding relationships with your clients.

For those who may not be familiar with my work or new to my artistry. I’ve worked with both Mary J Blige and Lil’ Kim for 13years that had come to an amicable close a bit after the promotion of the VIVA GLAM ads done in early 2000 (no shade, all love and growth). This shoot was done by Photographer and friend David LaChapplelle.

This shoot was the catalyst in my 14 year relationship with MAC. I also worked with MAC while I was working on the Broadway play “WICKED”. Yes, Elphaba is a MAC girl, Lololol! Although I must say her foundation is a bit green! Lololol!

20140402-140401.jpgI’ve used MAC on many of the projects I’ve done makeup for and am always excited to try any new offerings they may have in makeup. Now, clearly I use many other brands but, MAC is always putting something new out faster than you can blink and, it can be difficult to keep up with for reviews. But I’d like to share with you some of my latest finds and uses in MAC products.

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•Marine Bright Formula Softening Lotion & Moisture Creme

Honestly, I’ve never quite really used any of MAC’s Skincare Products (Im a La Mer, Mario Badescu, Shiesedo and Bliss girl) BUT, I have to say I’m LOVING this collection!!

Both the Softening Lotion and the Moisturizing Creme are AWESOME! The Softening Lotion is like a liquid pore refiner and feels like water but leaves the skin feeling clean and taught. The way I used it was with a cotton bud but you can always spray it on (as a finisher) or splash it on with your hands (of course on a clean face).

The Moisture Creme is really invisibly light but has deep penetrating yet light moisture (not oily at all, more like aqua moisture).

It feels like water but yet it’s a creme…I know it’s an oxymoron but its hard to describe how it feels. My skin just drunk it all in and looks like new. My makeup today actually does look different and set really well.

And using it on clients who seem to have large pores it seemed like it just refines the skin and leaves the skin clear smooth and flat on the surface. Which for me is a great starting canvas for makeup.

Ok friends,I really like this one. It’s definitely a keeper for my kit! Moving on to the next item.

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•MAC Cosmetics | Prep + Prime CC Colour Correcting Compact

1) Illuminate
2) Neutralize
3) Adjust
4) Recharge

These pressed powders are very similar in texture to Studio Fix yet my only complaint is they are a bit chalky in color. The powder is very finely milled which makes it great to put on top of finished makeup making it good for blending.

I find that I use Illuminate, Neutralize and Recharge for concealer powdering under the eyes and for spot highlighting. Adjust I’ve actually used as a blush on lighter complected clients. On darker clients I use it as a “middle” color to blend light concealer powder and blush.

The matching Prep + Prime CC Color Correcting Cremes I see very little difference in color. To me they’re all interchangeable. I’d rather use Smashbox, Makeup For Ever’s HD Color Correctors or Bobbi Brown’s newest CC Correcting Cremes that have a bit more pigmentation and can actually Neutralize and Color Correct!! These offerings are politely,…a bit disappointing. Sorry.

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•MAC Cosmetics | Pro Lip Palettes

1) Modern Browns
2) Select Plums
3) Editorial Oranges
4) Preferred Pinks
5) Editorial Reds

Ok, telling the truth…I was holding off on these palettes…why?…because I’ve created my own palettes over the years and have some really funky colors (blue, green, black, yellow, glitters, neons etc.)

But I have to say, these are really a MUST in your Pro Kit…there I said it!!! A MUST!

Really some of the chosen colors are pretty. The chosen ones are their most popular selling lip colors in one palette! Awesome! Running the gamut from moist glossy creams to authentic mattes. You start mixing and blending and rule breaking you will have a fabulous lip for print or film.

I also find the packaging great because its flat so it’s easy to carry about and the colors are in categories (like I have my personally made kits) i.e Reds, Pinks, Neutrals, Oranges and Plums…LOVE IT! Bravo MAC, bravo!

3 thumbs up for these dolls!

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• MAC Dazzleglass “Sugarrimmed”

So they discontinued my FAVORITE Lipglass color “White” so instead I got this little number it’s a very sheer pink with tiny rainbow glitters in it similar to my former Lipglass.

Truthfully Lipglass’ old formula strangely used to make clients lips peel…LITERALLY!!! It was scary but I always managed to hide it on shoots by using a quick buff (with Sara Happ Lip Scrub in Creme Brûlée…LIFESAVER!!) to quickly hit those lips off while onset and start from scratch!

I used Dazzleglass yesterday and it was indeed a hit! I think it may be a keeper and staple in the kit, let’s see what happens today. In fact I used it so lovingly that honestly I’ve literally used up half the tube already!!

Overall these selections from MAC are pretty awesome. And some will definitely become a staple in my kit.

Paint On viZionaire, Paint On…
Best Wishes,
NZINGHA