STROBING Makeup? What is “Strobing”?

Written by NZINGHA for TheGlamSquadFiles™

As I’ve been researching on the internet I’ve found this new term floating around “STROBING”. I’m like what the blaze is that about?!? These kids making up names for this we’d already tagged for years!!

It made me chuckle a bit to think how everything in life really does go in cycles. Contouring is a cycle revisited in every generation and it seems so again with STROBING! Ok I’d done this look on several occasions with my Musical Celebrity Clients all throughout the 90’s only we never called it strobing.

My Makeup look for Mary J Blige for Interview Magazine shot by David La Chappelle. Here she is strobing with NARS BODY GLO and Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel.

 

The look for me took me back in different eras 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 70’s Disco. One of my fave sites to see some vintage looks is http://www.queensofvintage.com you will see nothing is really new, it’s just revisited by an era that comes behind it. It’s rediscovered and in some cases redesigned but never re-invented!!

Here’s Ms. Marilyn Monroe clearly 50’s style strobing

  I mean just look at these Legends looking glorious and just that hint of sheen and highlight in the right spots. Meanwhile the natural contours of their faces were strong to begin with.

All Strobing is is a play on light, highlighting and a little sheen or even a high gloss for extra drama! It’s not to be confused with a dewy look. A dewy look is lightweight and pretry much consistent all over the face. Strobing is focused either in a mild way or in a dramatic way (that’s when I break out the oils, not just creams or shimmering powders) it’s really making use of the light source on your subject and reflecting that light. 

 

My latest Strobing makeup work with the lovely Model Olivia. See how the light hits her face in strategic places?

 

This is Rapper Charli Baltimore in a shot we did for Honey Magazine again a play on light and liquid to create this strobe look.

 

  Now I’m going to share with you how my creative mind worked at that time (and trust me it saved me many a day when I had countless models on set to do full face and body makeup). Believe it or not I would use a can of Isoplus Oil Sheen Spray!! 

Yes I used a hair sheen spray, yes it worked and yes it looked good!!! No streaks just an even stream of sheen in all the right places and the formula was thick enough to stay in place yet thin enough to coat and spray and no harm was ever done to anyone’s skin!! 

My personal technique for “Strobing” is equal parts foundation to liminzer (MAC Strobe Cream, Gorgio Armani Luminzer, or a loose shimmering powder and all other makeup are also creams) I like to use my fingers on the skin to warm it up and move the product better. Then I go in and stipple brush in circular motions to blend. And then I’d  finish off with a mist of sheen spray (well now I use Caudalie as my sheen spray).  

I strobe on the body as well. I would use the same technique with the body and a larger brush (no sponges!). My fave body strobing options today are 

  1. Caudalie (The spray bottle and scent make this one #1 choice for numerous purposes)
  2. NARS Body Glo
  3. Body Shop Honey Bronze   

My Makeup for Lil’ Kim in this video is “Strobing 101: For Dummies ” music video style. Check the pause at counter 3:44-3:45 you will see STROBING at its best!!

“Soul Sista” Written & Sung by Bilal, Directed by Nzingha Stewart , Makeup Consultant by NZINGHA . Here we are STROBING to the 11th power!!!

Right now this is my “Go-To” on set STROBING body oil by Caudalie’…WHY? Smells great, sprays (that’s the deal breaker for me) and they’ve got mini’s (also a deal breaker for me, remember I bought the mini Isoplus’ because they were mini and spray!) for my On-Set bag! 

Had we had Caudalie’ in the 90’s I would’ve bought them by wholesale case as I prefer to have bulk of my fave Go-To products. That’s the other thing. When you’ve been at it for years you develop a signature Pro MUA style, presentation and you become set about the products that will become long term staples in your Kit.

Right now this is mt “Go-To” on set body oil…WHY? Smells great, sprays and they’ve got mini’s for my set bag!

 
Jackie Aina : Strobing

Wayne Goss: Strobing

Tina Young: Strobing

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Kenig + Alcone…Beauty Curators…a beauty ingenues heaven

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

It was just an ordinary day for me on my way home from work. I happened to be walking towards 14th Street up 6th Avenue (in NYC). And I stopped by a window and saw beauty items. I originally wanted to go to Ricky’s that night for a special product I always use. This place would be a detour for me on the way.

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The boutique like store was closed! I knocked on the window for the attention of what looked like a sales person. We spoke through the closed glass door, I asked if they carried the item I was originally going to Ricky’s for. I thought perhaps they may have it. He said wait hold on let me look. He looked and said “No, but you may find that at Ricky’s it’s just up 14th Street.”

The original brand store in NYC called Ricky’s

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I thought to myself how sweet of him to stop to talk to me even as they are closing up the shop. I asked what time they’d be open again tomorrow so I could be sure to come back. I turned on my heels and found my way over to Ricky’s for my products.

I returned again the next day again after work but a bit earlier. Again looking through the clean clear glass windows of this beauty boutique I could see what seemed to be an endless wall of hair goodies and supplies. Well, you’ve already reeled me in! As I walked in the door to this sleek airy and modern space to my left was what looked like an electric chair. I didn’t bother to examine it because I was pulled in by what I saw…PRODUCTS!!! Turns out that that “electric chair” is the original hair perm machine used in the 1930’s. A magical, historical and vintage find!

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As a beauty Artist you find yourself always on the lookout for the next best thing that will become the “SECRET WEAPON” in your makeup kit. And sometimes the “SECRET WEAPON” is… a place. I always want to be surprised by the latest and greatest new thing on the market that will wind up becoming legendary and something my clients (celebrity & non celebrity alike) will absolutely love.

When I was deep into the store a most stunningly handsome man asked if he could help me. In my usual frank and nautily witty way I replied “Mmm you don’t even know!”, “What’s this place?…it’s new. I’ve not seen this store here before. And it says outside Kenig + Alcone? I know about Alcone I’m a big supporter of Alcone are they the owners of this store?”

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He said yes. And began to tell me of the merging of my two favourite brand stores. OMG!! I’m in love!! Truly an amazing find I thought. And funny just the night before I came here looking for products I usually find at Ricky’s!!! The irony of it!! Well, just then the same young man who spoke to me through the glass just the night before came barreling down the steps.

He said “I remember you. How are you? Where you able to find your products? My name is Ray. Ray Holt.” I loved him instantly! He took me for a tour upstairs as I told him my specialty is makeup. He asked if I knew Ricky then. I said “Ricky who?”, he said “Ricky Kenig. The owner of this store and the founder of the original Ricky’s beauty supply.” Me “WHAT?!?!” Wait a minute, Ricky’s beauty supply and Alcone merged? GENIUS!!!! Who knew! No I don’t know Ricky.”

Ray, “Surprising, everybody knows Ricky.” I guess Ray was right everybody does know Ricky if they’ve been in his store but do I know him personally,…no. “He knows everyone in the beauty industry you had to have met him.” “I should know him, his store has been my go to all throughout my career! Guess, if you think about it,… you can say I know him and he knows me.”

Well, upstairs was a virtual smorgasbord of beauty and makeup items a beauty ingenues heaven!!! There were two young MUA’s up there browsing like myself. We wound up chatting all four of us.

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This time I had to run because I was going to my next job but I wanted to meet Ray and browse the store. I would return again and upon my next visit after sending several clients to pick up items at the store, I walk in and there’s a handsome distinguished gentleman who greeted me at the door he said “Hi! Welcome to the store, I’m Ricky (with a firm handshake).”

I’m now floored by all the irony surrounding Ricky and myself today. I finally after years of supporting his other stores get to meet him today…, genius serendipity and not accidental! We spoke for at least an hour and a half ( such an amazing man, with the warmest heart and incredible brand knowledge). Please look for upcoming classes from yours truly at Kenig + Alcone Boutique.

After doing a bit of homework after my meeting the charming, stylish and enigmatic Ricky, I found out that Ricky’s was not his first beauty supply shop but “LOVE” Beauty Supply during the 80’s was! I lived for Love’s back then at the the beginning of my budding makeup career out of HS. My how we both have grown, I thought. Not only is Ricky a man with a Midas touch for beauty stores he’s got a creative talent for making things happen. Ricky Kenig is the originator of the fashion runway worlds choice hair clips and matte hair pins only found at Kenig + Alcone and created by Ricky Kenig himself.

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Well, in closing, I’ll say this…Kenig + Alcone is certainly no kitschy novelty store but a sleek, modern boutique with an almost millennium apocathary feel. It’s for the more mature polished consumer who knows about Pro Makeup and Hair brands. NY’s answer to LA’s Frends and Naime’s (I dare say Kenig + Alcone will give the West Coast brands a run for their money!). Not to mention you can find just about all of your beauty needs that a Sephora cannot fill. Specialty beauty items never seen before and only used by Celebrity Pro Makeup Artists and Hair Designers. The items as only Ricky Kenig and Alcone can deliver. BRAVO Kenig + Alcone, BRAVO 👏👏👏👏

20140416-125102.jpgKENIG & ALCONE LLC 538 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10011 (917) 261-2640 10am-8pm

Ombré * Reverse Ombré * Ombre??

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

There’s one thing I’m a stickler about is correct information. I’ve been seeing and hearing this word being used a lot in the past year into this current year…Ombré (correct use with an apostrophe, refers to artistic color gradation starting from light to dark) or Ombre (incorrect use in this case referring to fashion, without the apostrophe, referring to a card game)

Ladies are getting their hair colored Ombré (Light to dark) or either “Reversed” Ombré (dark to light) fashion. Here’s the breakdown from Webster’s Dictionary.

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The latest lipstick trend Ombré Lips

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Main Entry: om·bré
Pronunciation: \ˈäm-ˌbrā\
Function: adjective
Etymology: French, past participle of ombrer to shade, from Italian ombrare, from ombra shade, from Latin umbra — more at umbrage
Date: 1893
: having colors or tones that shade into each other —used especially of fabrics in which the color is graduated from light to dark
— ombré noun

Main Entry: om·bre
Pronunciation: \ˈäm-bər; ˈäm-brē, ˈəm-, -ˌbrā\
Function: noun
Etymology: French or Spanish; French hombre, from Spanish, literally, man — more at hombre
Date: circa 1661
: an old three-handed card game popular in Europe especially in the 17th and 18th centuries


Ok so there you have the breakdown for the meaning and correct way to say the word. In fashion we are not talking about a 17/18th century card game, so say it correctly. If you’re in fashion or into styling you should know the difference!!

Now the fashion look concerning the reverse Ombre’ lip (which has been more popular) in particular had its origin in the theatre world to help greater define the lip for stage. Theatrical makeup is done heavily and colourfully so that the performers face does not get lost with all the stage lighting, and that the audience can see the face.

How this and when this look really met mainstream is unknown to me. However my personal exposure to the look was in the 1980’s. Women of color (black & latino) in NY city wore this style and still do. Lipliners back then were either too light or non existent in colors that were comparable to the women’s skin tones so they began to use darker lipsticks or simply eyeliners to not only line their eyes but also line their lips.

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Like many other fashion trends that came out of urban America so did this look. Most white women rarely wore the look and those that did used other colors besides black or dark brown pencil. In the performers realm many female impersonators would and still do wear the look. In the 80’s music scene Grace Jones (Caribbean decent) bought the look to the mainstream through her music and personal style.

Some people love the look, some people amplify the look and others despise the look calling it “the worst look ever”. Well now it’s back and you all are calling it “Ombre”!!

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Here are a few sketches of makeup I did for Lil’ Kim featuring a strongly lined lip that is now called “Ombré” back then it was just a lined lip. Some people loved the look and others hated the look.

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Here you can see the “Reverse Ombré” lip look I featured frequently on singer Mary J. Blige in the mid-90’s.

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20140415-150338.jpgHere I recreated the Reverse Ombre’ look on the cover of Modern Salon Magazing

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http://m.vogue.it/en/magazine/cover-story/2012/03/over-the-top
Simple Ombre’ Lip

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And here it is again for the Millinials. Everything old becomes new again!
Reverse Ombre’ Lip

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