*Artist Spotlight | Max Factor

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Max Factor – The Man Behind The Make-Up

Max Factor born September 15, 1872 was of Polish Jewish decent who worked as a wigmaker and makeup artist for Russian stage productions in the late 1800s. Factor fled the east European pogroms and emigrated to the U.S. in 1902. He found himself in California 10 years later as the motion picture industry took root there.

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Factor took work as a makeup and hair stylist for film stars, and in 1914 he invented “Supreme Grease Paint,” a face makeup that still exists today

Max Factor began his career as an apprentice to a wig maker. By the age of 20, he was running his own makeup shop. Before Max Factor, few women used cosmetics. Factor popularized both the word “makeup” and the use of the cosmetic repertoire.

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Back in the 1930’s and 40’s, during the glory days of Hollywood, the world of movie make-up was dominated by Max Factor. Creating false eyelashes, the eyebrow pencil, lip gloss, and pancake makeup, Factor created a whole new language for big screen cosmetics.

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Jean Harlow, Claudette Colbert, Bette Davis, and virtually all of the major movie actresses were regular customers of the Max Factor beauty salon, located near Hollywood Boulevard.

Inevitably, once the actresses had been made to look so stylish on screen, they wanted to maintain the same effect in everyday life, so they wore the new Max Factor ‘makeup’ in personal appearances.

Soon, women unconnected with the theatre or the film industry were asking for the makeup, so that they too could look glamorous. It was in 1927 that Max Factor introduced his first cosmetics to be sold to non-theatrical consumers.

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Max Factor specialized in transforming ordinary people into dazzling stars. Its glory days were with the golden age of the movie studios, when the stars used to provide product endorsements for as little as a dollar. Their glamour rubbed off on Max Factor, and vice versa.

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Max Factor developed the celebrity endorsement concept, beginning with Clara Bow in the 1920s. Since then, stars including Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner, Marilyn Monroe, Jean Harlow, Judy Garland, Joan Crawford, Jaclyn Smith and Denise Richards amongst numerous others have all represented the brand. Many of his celebrity clients also appeared in full-color magazine ads to promote his cosmetics.

The first Celebrity Makeup Ads began with Max Factor Cosmetics. The ads featured movie stars: Judy Garland, Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rita Hayworth, Dorothy Lamor, Susan Hayward and a host of others.

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The advertising campaign claimed that every girl could look like a movie star by using Max Factor makeup.

Max Factor is credited with many cosmetic innovations. Some of his innovations were the first motion picture makeup in 1914, lip gloss in 1930, Pan-Cake Makeup, forerunner of all modern cake makeups in 1937, Pan-Stik Makeup in 1948, Erace, the original cover-up cosmetic in 1954, and the first “waterproof” makeup in 1971.

An abbreviated timeline of Max Factor:

1914: Created the first makeup made specifically for motion pictures, a thinner greasepaint made in 12 shades. It was in cream form and packaged in jars, as opposed to the thicker stick grease paints used for theatre.

1920: Developed the “Color Harmony” principles of makeup, which held that “certain combinations of a woman’s complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades”.

1925: Introduces “Max Factor’s Supreme Nail Polish”, a metal pot of beige-colored powder that is sprinkled on the nails and buffed with a chamois buffer. It gives nails shine and some tint.

1927: Creates “Society Nail Tint”, a small porcelain pot containing rose colored cream. Applied to the nail and buffed, it gives a natural rose color. “Society Nail White” also hits the market. It is a tube of chalky white liquid that is applied under nail tips and left to dry. The end result resembles the modern French manicure.

1928: Developed makeup, made specifically for use in black-and-white films. Max Sr. was awarded an Oscar for this innovation.

1930: Invented Lip Gloss

1932: Developed a line of “Television Makeup”, specifically to meet the needs of television.

1934: Introduces Liquid Nail Enamel, forerunner of today’s nail enamels.

1935: Opened the unique Max Factor Makeup Salon in Los Angeles.

1937: Created PanCake, forerunner of modern cake makeup, originally developed for color films.

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1938: Max Factor died at age 59. Max Factor Jr. expands the family run business internationally.

1940: Created Tru Color Lipstick, the first smear-proof lipstick.

1948: Developed PanStik makeup.

1954: Created Erace, the original concealer, and developed a line of cosmetics specifically for color television’s needs. (This line remains the standard for TV makeup.)

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1971: Invented the first “waterproof” makeup.

First African American Super Model to represent Max Factor Cosmetics | Beverley Johnson

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Max Factor CC Creams

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Thank You Max! — in Ode’ to Max Factor.

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Book written about the life of Makeup Artist, Inventor, Innovator, CEO Max Factor written by Fred Basten

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http://www.nytimes.com/1996/12/29/magazine/the-man-who-made-the-faces-up.html

*Artist Spotlight | Alex Box

20140411-124624.jpgWritten by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

Every now and again there comes along that just inspires you to do the unconventional, the unexpected…strictly ART MAKEUP. Designs, shapes, colors… It is Makeup… But for what? It’s like going to a museum and examining detail , purpose and the direction of the intention of the makeup. How does it make you feel? The face truly represents the canvas. Alex Box is that kind of Makeup Artists….one who inspires you to dare!!!

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*Artist Spotlight | Sharon Gault Mama Makeup

20140408-082839.jpgWritten by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

It was last year (2013) April at IMATS (International Makeup Artists Trade Show) that I’d first met Sharon Gault aka Mama Makeup. We’d know of each other for many years as she and I both have worked with world renowned photographer David LaChappelle over the years (very few MUA’s get that opportunity because his “family” is tight knit). I was with a friend of mine while passing through the myriad of vendor booths and standing quietly at the RCMA booth, I saw the profile of one fire red head diminutive girl speaking with an older man. I immediately knew who she was,…it was indeed Sharon!

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I walked over to her and said “Hi Sharon, I’m NZINGHA.” Immediately she hugged me ,”NZINGHA! OMG! For real, finally I get to meet you! I’ve heard so much about you!” We hugged and giggled like two little girls in a candy store. “Sharon I’m so happy to meet you too! I looked and instantly knew it was you! How are you muffins?! How’s David doing? Tell him I said hi!”

We talked for quite a bit before I was able to introduce her to my friend who was with me shopping and enjoying the show. Sharon immediately introduced me to the makers of RCMA cosmetics and we all chatted. She and I immediately found a place to sit down and chat for about an hour! We spoke to each other with no reservation and telling our life stories to each other. It was truly a sister bonding moment, like we’ve known each other for years. And in a way we have…through our art.

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I wanted to talk with Sharon forever it was such a joy. Her presence is warm and fuzzy yet powerhouse all rolled into one. We talked about everything but makeup!!! Hahaaaahaa! We mostly talked about life in the fast lane of life and family.

As I looked at her I thought what a doll baby, how could anyone treat her with malice or cruelty. I recalled briefly in my mind her time on tour with Madonna and the ugly behaviour Madonna displayed in the film “Truth or Dare” and I thought about Sharon “You can’t stop a great woman from being who she is destined to be!!!” Sharon moved past Madonna and anyone or anything else that may have appeared to be an obstacle! “Team Mama Makeup” all the way!!!

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I also recalled many years back while I was on tour with Janet Jackson, as the tour was coming to a close I got a call from someone telling me about Madonna’s tour and her looking for a Makeup Artist, I’d been referred.

After seeing that Truth or Dare all I could think of was “not gonna work for any amount of $$$” my West Indian self and her…”Nah man, mi a haffa go beat her pon she head, mi no take tea fa di feva, she come bruk up mi son! Mi give her new eyeshadow called “FIST”!”

I was young and extra spicy then, Lololol! My reply to that person who called me was a healthy no and boy am I glad about that. Had I gone out on that tour I would’ve missed the whole new wave of R&B artists that were about to kick the door down.

Sharon was also on that wave with her roster of musicians and actors that seem endless to even mention. Did I mention Lady Gaga? No?…Lady Gaga….team MAMA MAKEUP all the way! Needless to say Sharon is a fabulous face force to be reckoned with! Some say their brush is not a magic wand but in the hands of Sharon Gault I beg to differ!! Sharon is pure magic on makeup,…the skin comes alive with warmth, depth and boldness.

Mama Fashion

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Mama Music

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Mama Actors

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Mama Means Business

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The original interview with Sharon Gault aka Mama Makeup by Vaga Magazine
Like many people who grow up with little means, the choices are: become a victim of your situation, or use it as an impetus to break free. Though her childhood may have been bleary, her escape (as it is for many) was the world of fashion. Collecting fashion magazines like some people collect baseball cards, Gault had every issue of Vogue: “I was obsessed with collecting my Vogue magazines, and I loved the make-up in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s.”

Surprisingly, make-up was not where Gault started off. Sharon Gault got her start as a wannabe photographer in California after she became infatuated with a sexy boxer named Lee Canalito. “He looked like a Michelangelo sculpture – he is so beautiful. I started photographing him and photographing things at the gym.”

But as a babe on a budget, photography soon proved to be an expensive habit this was back in the days when people still used film – imagine that. So Gault got a job as a receptionist at Vidal Sassoon.

And thus a new chapter began.

“I used to have a Farrah Fawcett kind of hairdo, like feathered hair and highlights. So I became a hair model.” Her mane soon became the sounding board for Vidal Sassoon. Red, black, platinum, asymmetrical cuts, shaved, she did it all. “I’d go from having this long gorgeous lion’s mane hair to cutting all my hair off, being a house model at Sassoon.”

Though she loved modeling the different looks, Gault’s interest ran deeper than just the superficial.

“I was fascinated at how hair revolutionized fashion and I was really excited about studying what Vidal Sassoon did and how he created his signature shape.”

Her fascination with hair soon led to Gault doing hair for others. She studied at the Vidal Sassoon Academy where she honed her skills as a hair and make-up artist.
Her charming, personality and skills soon took her to the top of the celeb circuit where she notably became famous for appearing in Madonna’s movie, Truth or Dare. Under the guidance of Peter Savic, she keyed the hair for the background dancers and singers for Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour.
Though she may not have become Madonna’s BFF, she did find a soulmate in David LaChapelle. “He’s the closest thing to a husband I’ll ever have,” she jokes. After meeting LaChapelle at a photo shoot in New York, the two became fast friends.
“I was assisting a hairdresser and someone on set said, ‘If you and David LaChapelle meet each other, you will be inseparable.”

And inseparable they were. She went on to become LaChapelle’s muse, working with him on an i-D magazine shoot in which she appears naked lying underneath a bubble perched on a field. Gault may have appeared calm and serene, but in reality she was lying on a trash landfill.

“I’m lying on this landfill, sweating, thinking I’m going to get some bad toxic thing in my system. I’m sitting there crying. And they had no permits and the police were driving by, and here I am naked, and everybody is looking at my coochie.”

Though most people might be a little hesitant about appearing naked even if they have model-perfect bodies, Gault says she was comfortable being photographed nude.

“My mom tried to teach us to honor our bodies. It’s that side of me that likes to show that people love me for me, not for my body.”

Not unlike what she did for the Calvin Klein “Pepper” fragrance commercial.
The commercial was all about encompassing different body types, different people,
and different looks.

“Kate Moss used to live with me, and it’s so nice because it opens up with Kate talking – and at the end it’s
me, and I’m like, ‘It’s for you, it’s for me, it’s for everyone.’ Like we’re all one.”

Kenig + Alcone…Beauty Curators…a beauty ingenues heaven

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

It was just an ordinary day for me on my way home from work. I happened to be walking towards 14th Street up 6th Avenue (in NYC). And I stopped by a window and saw beauty items. I originally wanted to go to Ricky’s that night for a special product I always use. This place would be a detour for me on the way.

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The boutique like store was closed! I knocked on the window for the attention of what looked like a sales person. We spoke through the closed glass door, I asked if they carried the item I was originally going to Ricky’s for. I thought perhaps they may have it. He said wait hold on let me look. He looked and said “No, but you may find that at Ricky’s it’s just up 14th Street.”

The original brand store in NYC called Ricky’s

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I thought to myself how sweet of him to stop to talk to me even as they are closing up the shop. I asked what time they’d be open again tomorrow so I could be sure to come back. I turned on my heels and found my way over to Ricky’s for my products.

I returned again the next day again after work but a bit earlier. Again looking through the clean clear glass windows of this beauty boutique I could see what seemed to be an endless wall of hair goodies and supplies. Well, you’ve already reeled me in! As I walked in the door to this sleek airy and modern space to my left was what looked like an electric chair. I didn’t bother to examine it because I was pulled in by what I saw…PRODUCTS!!! Turns out that that “electric chair” is the original hair perm machine used in the 1930’s. A magical, historical and vintage find!

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As a beauty Artist you find yourself always on the lookout for the next best thing that will become the “SECRET WEAPON” in your makeup kit. And sometimes the “SECRET WEAPON” is… a place. I always want to be surprised by the latest and greatest new thing on the market that will wind up becoming legendary and something my clients (celebrity & non celebrity alike) will absolutely love.

When I was deep into the store a most stunningly handsome man asked if he could help me. In my usual frank and nautily witty way I replied “Mmm you don’t even know!”, “What’s this place?…it’s new. I’ve not seen this store here before. And it says outside Kenig + Alcone? I know about Alcone I’m a big supporter of Alcone are they the owners of this store?”

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He said yes. And began to tell me of the merging of my two favourite brand stores. OMG!! I’m in love!! Truly an amazing find I thought. And funny just the night before I came here looking for products I usually find at Ricky’s!!! The irony of it!! Well, just then the same young man who spoke to me through the glass just the night before came barreling down the steps.

He said “I remember you. How are you? Where you able to find your products? My name is Ray. Ray Holt.” I loved him instantly! He took me for a tour upstairs as I told him my specialty is makeup. He asked if I knew Ricky then. I said “Ricky who?”, he said “Ricky Kenig. The owner of this store and the founder of the original Ricky’s beauty supply.” Me “WHAT?!?!” Wait a minute, Ricky’s beauty supply and Alcone merged? GENIUS!!!! Who knew! No I don’t know Ricky.”

Ray, “Surprising, everybody knows Ricky.” I guess Ray was right everybody does know Ricky if they’ve been in his store but do I know him personally,…no. “He knows everyone in the beauty industry you had to have met him.” “I should know him, his store has been my go to all throughout my career! Guess, if you think about it,… you can say I know him and he knows me.”

Well, upstairs was a virtual smorgasbord of beauty and makeup items a beauty ingenues heaven!!! There were two young MUA’s up there browsing like myself. We wound up chatting all four of us.

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This time I had to run because I was going to my next job but I wanted to meet Ray and browse the store. I would return again and upon my next visit after sending several clients to pick up items at the store, I walk in and there’s a handsome distinguished gentleman who greeted me at the door he said “Hi! Welcome to the store, I’m Ricky (with a firm handshake).”

I’m now floored by all the irony surrounding Ricky and myself today. I finally after years of supporting his other stores get to meet him today…, genius serendipity and not accidental! We spoke for at least an hour and a half ( such an amazing man, with the warmest heart and incredible brand knowledge). Please look for upcoming classes from yours truly at Kenig + Alcone Boutique.

After doing a bit of homework after my meeting the charming, stylish and enigmatic Ricky, I found out that Ricky’s was not his first beauty supply shop but “LOVE” Beauty Supply during the 80’s was! I lived for Love’s back then at the the beginning of my budding makeup career out of HS. My how we both have grown, I thought. Not only is Ricky a man with a Midas touch for beauty stores he’s got a creative talent for making things happen. Ricky Kenig is the originator of the fashion runway worlds choice hair clips and matte hair pins only found at Kenig + Alcone and created by Ricky Kenig himself.

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Well, in closing, I’ll say this…Kenig + Alcone is certainly no kitschy novelty store but a sleek, modern boutique with an almost millennium apocathary feel. It’s for the more mature polished consumer who knows about Pro Makeup and Hair brands. NY’s answer to LA’s Frends and Naime’s (I dare say Kenig + Alcone will give the West Coast brands a run for their money!). Not to mention you can find just about all of your beauty needs that a Sephora cannot fill. Specialty beauty items never seen before and only used by Celebrity Pro Makeup Artists and Hair Designers. The items as only Ricky Kenig and Alcone can deliver. BRAVO Kenig + Alcone, BRAVO 👏👏👏👏

20140416-125102.jpgKENIG & ALCONE LLC 538 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10011 (917) 261-2640 10am-8pm

*Artist Spotlight | Kevyn Aucoin…a friend

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Written by NZINGHA for ZFACEINC,nyc

I remember the first time I met Kevyn Aucoin (of course I stand at 5’2 and he at 6’4 , I had to look up, hurting my neck! Lolol) and the first thing he did was to put his arms around me and hug me and say ” I have been following your work and girl you are awesome. You’re gonna be fine don’t worry”

He began to break down my work to me with such clarity and passion. He showed me his secret weapon which I have since embraced into my makeup technique. Little did I dream that I would meet him in what was only my 3rd year in the entertainment/beauty industry and on this occasion of having to recreate his work on tour with none other than mZ. Janet Jackson! Talk about pressure!! I’d never assisted any Makeup Artist and now to have to recreate what’s already been established by a legend. He didn’t hold my hand but he talked me through it allowing my handwork to flow.

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He showed me exactly what he used on her with no reservations, attitudes or fear of client theft. He was generous to a fault and all we did was laugh for the whole day into night. We shared person thoughts and dreams. I loved him. We didn’t get to see each other often (accept for accidentally meeting up on frequent flights to LA) but every now and again I would get a call from him laughing “No …you didn’t. I loved that spread and when I saw your name I was glad for you.That color combo was sick! Go girl!”

I told him that I was in shock about even being invited on this tour because it had only been 3 years of me working in the biz, I didn’t know I had made that much of a dent that anyone would even know my work like that. He said “You would be surprised who’s watching.”

I shared with him that it was only a few years earlier that I was doing sketches of Janet ( I did this with several artists that I liked at the time and surprisingly wound up working with most of them later) as a teen at home in my room living with Mum.

I never knew I would actually wind up working with Janet, here like this right now in what would only be like 6 years later! (Here are some of those sketches)

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My Mum was/is/forever in heaven now an angel. Once she settled into the thought of my being a Makeup Artist, she embraced my vision with both hands! I remember it was Christmas and Mum had several gifts for me as always…but there was this one that was large and semi heavy. “Mmm” I thought “I dunno what this one is at all.” And on opening I like to pass out it was it was Kevyn’s first book “The Art of Makeup” 1994. Guess he was in the process of completing the book while I was on tour with Janet.

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I can hear her voice now (it was small,gentle, and sing songy) “I thought you may like this one Zing, didn’t you say you worked with him while you were with Janet? I saw him on Oprah. He does beautiful work. What kind of person is he? He seems lovely. Maybe you can get him to sign it for you Zing.” I was in tears because her gifts were always so well thought out and just thoughtful. I felt like I’d just gotten an Oscar from her 💗💗💗💗
forever Mum!! I never got that opportunity for him to sign it, he’d passed away before I could ever see him again. Oddly we’d spoken only months before his passing.

20140414-134439.jpgIt was Kevyn’s humility that struck me even more than his obviously brilliant work. It wasn’t a fake humility like I’ve seen some of my contemporaries display, it was real, really who he was. He was mature in every sense of the word and secure. It wasn’t about him striving to be famous, and look at me business. He made each woman look like an amplified version of herself not “OOOooh I’ve got Kevyn Aucoin makeup style makeup on!” He said it himself “I want people to say SHE looks beautiful, not her MAKEUP looks beautiful.”

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I remember looking at his hand movements as he was painting Janet’s face while we were in the trailer that day and thinking he has to have the largest hands I had ever seen!!!! I handed him his brushes at his request and we all were joking and talking…they (he and Janet) were mostly asking me questions (I guess I was still being interviewed for the position of on tour Makeup Artist).

While handing Kevyn his secret weapon I accidentally touched his hand and was in shock. I asked him to give me his palms and he did and to my amazement he had the softest hands and moist fingertips, he told me that the heat from his fingertips helps him with the blending “Guess it works to my advatage” laughing, he said “Now remember Nzingha, blend this line right here and add just a little bit more of this color.”as he went on with the visual instruction.

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I remember thinking I’m gonna die! I can’t believe I’m here…in this fabulous trailer…with the most sought after Makeup Artist in the world and …with Janet Jackson!!! Me a little British West Indian girl born in the Bronx and hailing from a single parent home! ME????…,HERE???? Oh, GOD Lawd’ thank you..help me to do my bes’ an represent mi family well ( my immediate family and my Caribbean family everywhere)!!!

20140414-154224.jpgIt was this photo that changed my whole visual makeup path. It was so Kevyn yet so Way Bandy (one of my other fave icons). Kevyn admitted to being a fan of Bandy’s too during our convo’s.

Well, now it was my turn to do Jan’s makeup with Kevyn watching and her feeling my hand on her face observing my technique now merging with Kevyn’s (I was shaking on the inside) . She loved it and so did he!!! She said “You’ve got such a gentle hand, Nzingha, I wanted to go to sleep yet, it was firm. You both have a similar way about you, I feel comfortable”. Well, after her 6 month Makeup Artists search with some of the worlds best, she chose me to join her “family”!

Many had come and gone but, I was still standing! I asked why me? “Because you feel like family, you have a great and humble attitude and when asked to perform you went right in on it with confidence under pressure. That’s why.” I never forgot what she said to me nor, did I ever forget the many conversations I had with Kevyn on the road and later on in my growing career. And in that short amount of time he was now to author 2 more beauty books and launch his own cosmetic line! Bravo Kevyn 👏👏👏👏

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Kevyn’s final book which I have still yet to get in my estimation seems to be the perfect closure to a life well lived and a work well appreciated by many. He must’ve known when he would leave us, still so generous even in his illness, to give us just one more peek.

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I wound up working along side of Kevyn again this time it was a Vogue photo shoot with all three of my then clients Mary J. Blige, Missy Elliot and Lil’ Kim. There was no tension in his doing their makeup, he was very careful to “big me up”. So sweet, I was shadowing him and schooling the ladies on his legendary status, it was such an amazing shoot and most of all to see Kevyn again in work mode. He said “You know Nzingha, I love what you do with all three ladies, mostly cause all of them look different in your makeup. You beat them all differently. You’ve got all these music ladies on their best! Keep up the amazing work.”

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Kevyn was an encourager and never a hater. He always had an encouraging word to say and sometimes words of admiration of my work when he’d call me. He was always secure in his skin and in his ability and that’s what truly made him a Makeup Icon. A LEGEND!! Often imitated but not duplicated. So Here’s my tribute to Kevyn…

Peacefully Rest Dear One, your influence still lives on.
Paint On ViZionaire!
NZINGHA